The sparsely populated Republic of the Congo is a surprising central African gem with seemingly endless pristine tropical forest and fingers of moist savannah covering its interior.

boating on the Mambili River

Odzala-Kokoua National Park (OKNP) lies is the remote north of the country, on the border with Gabon. It’s right in the heart of the Congo Basin, the world’s second largest expanse of tropical rainforest. Aside from a host of forest biodiversity, it holds Africa’s densest population of Western Lowland Gorillas. It is also renowned as the richest forest block in central Africa for primates species with eleven diurnal species recorded.

Activities range from gorilla tracking (habituated groups), pirogue rides along lush river systems, night drives in the savannah, walks along lush forest streams and salines, and of course time spent at the productive forest bais.

Odzala-Kokoua National Park

Odzala-Kokoua is one of Africa’s oldest national parks, having been proclaimed by the French administration in 1935. It covers some 13600 square kilometres (1.360 million hectares) of pristine rain forest and is an integral part of both the Congo Basin and the TRIDOM Transfrontier Park overlapping Gabon, Congo and Central African Republic. It holds globally significant populations of Western Lowland Gorilla and Forest Elephant as well as a plethora of other species: 430 bird species and more than 100 mammal species of which around 50 are classified as medium- or largesized.

Odzala has the highest number (11) of diurnal primates for any forest block in central Africa, as well as Africa’s highest density of Western Lowland Gorillas and central Africa’s highest density of Chimpanzees.

Bais

Bai

Bais, or salines, are swampy, grassy areas that are dotted across the rainforest and which offer a rare chance to catch a glimpse beyond the ‘green curtain’ into the lives of the forest dwellers. Various mammal species come to the bais on a regular basis in order to access various elements from minerals and salts, to sedges and water loving grasses to water. These bais range in size from less than a hectare to more than 10 hectares and represent the best chance of seeing forest wildlife. Viewing at the bais takes place from raised platform hides, or miradors, and requires patience. The bais we visit in Odzala-Kokoua are relatively small and as a result offer the opportunity for close up viewing of various species.

Western Lowland Gorilla

Western Lowland Gorilla

There are two species of gorilla found in Africa, the Western Gorilla Gorilla gorilla and the Eastern Gorilla Gorilla beringei. The Eastern Gorilla consists of two subspecies, the well-known Mountain Gorilla G. b. beringei of Uganda and Rwanda, and the Eastern Lowland Gorilla G. b. graueri of the eastern parts of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Both of these subspecies are considered Endangered. The Western Gorilla also consists of two subspecies, the Western Lowland Gorilla G. g. gorilla principally of Congo (Brazzaville) and Gabon, and the little known Cross River Gorilla G. g. diehli of the border region between Cameroon and Nigeria. Both of these subspecies are considered Critically Endangered as a result of commercial bushmeat hunting, disease epidemics and habitat loss. The very slow rate of reproduction accentuates all these effects. It is the Western Lowland Gorilla that occurs in Odzala and is found here at the highest densities so far recorded for the species.

In the area of Ngaga Camp Western Lowland Gorillas live in groups ranging in size from 10 to 25 individuals (average 16-17 animals), usually with one silverback, maybe 5-7 adult females and then a collection of sub-adults, babies and sometimes subordinate males. In this high density area, home range size is between just less than 4km2 and just over 8km2 (average 5-6km2 or 2 square miles). Movements within the home range depend on seasonal utilization of key food types. Staple foods for example include leaves, shoots and plant material, but the seasonal availability of fruit is crucial in the diet and influences group foraging movements.

Born at 2kg (4.5lbs), female Western Lowland Gorillas will grow to around 70kg (150lbs) in weight, while the much larger males might reach 180kg (390lbs) and stand 1.8m (6 feet) in height.

Gorilla Tracking

Gorilla Tracking

Western Lowland Gorillas can be observed in two different ways while in Odzala: either through tracking habituated groups using the impressive skills of our expert local Mbeti trackers (Okoko Zepherin and Okele Gabin), or by patiently waiting at hides on the edge of forest bais for family groups to forage on the sedges (water-loving grasses) there.

As a result of the work done by gorilla researchers Dr Magda Bermejo and German Illera, a number of habituated groups can be tracked and observed in the area around Ngaga Camp. In this extended 30km2 (11.5 square miles) area there are no fewer than 7 groups totalling 105 individual gorillas. Two of these groups are usually accessed by our guests while a third is observed primarily for research purposes. Other groups are also seen on a regular basis.

Given that Ngaga Camp is situated at an overlap between the home ranges of three different gorilla groups and close to another three, tracking expeditions do not cover enormous distances and can range in length from 1-8km (0.5-5 miles) over undulating country. The undergrowth can be thick however and, including the time spent with a gorilla group, excursions can last between 2 and 5 hours.

Gorilla viewing protocol is based on the guidelines issued by the IUCN for great ape viewing and is very similar to that of Rwanda/Uganda. Protocols are designed specifically to limit behavioural impact and also potential disease transmission from humans to gorillas. They are critical for gorilla conservation.

• Minimum age for gorilla viewing is 15 years – this is for reasons of safety but also for possible disease transmission, with children under this age more prone to infection.
• Maximum proximity to gorillas is 7 metres (22 feet). It is not permitted to approach more closely and we typically view the animals at 10-15m (32-50 feet).
• Maximum viewing duration of any group is 1 hour per day. Each group is only visited once per day, but if guests would like to spend more than an hour with gorillas on a particular day and time allows it is possible to track a different group following the first encounter.
• Maximum number of guests per gorilla tracking excursion is 6.
• Guests that display cold, flu or other respiratory tract symptoms, will not be allowed to track gorillas.
• No food is permitted on gorilla tracking excursions, nor is smoking allowed. Hand washing facilities are provided at Ngaga Camp prior to gorilla tracking.
• While gorilla sightings and encounters are very reliable, viewing is dependent on variables such as weather and tracking conditions.

The Sangha Tri-National zone was created on the initative of COMIFAC, a conference of the ministers of forests from the countries in the Congo basin. The Sangha River Tri-national Protected area (STN) includes Dzanga Sangha Special Reserve in Central African Republic, Nouabale Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo (Brazzaville) and the Lobeke National Park in Cameroon (with 2 sectors forming the Dzanga Ndoki National Park).

Sangha River

The agreement between the parks was initiated to co-ordinate and police efforts against poaching, ivory/arms trading, illegal fishing and hunting.

Forest bais [clearings] attract numerous forest elephant; there are habituated lowland gorilla and strong populations of wild chimpanzee amongst numerous other species which include bongo and sitatunga. Many endemic birds are found in this area, amphibians, fish and swallowtail butterflies.

The protected areas constitute about 2.8 millions ha. Since they are located away from larger localities and traffic routes, they have been spared by intensive economic uses for a long time. Thus, a unique natural landscape comprising a high density of large mammals has been preserved.

The Dzanga Sangha Reserve

Found in the rainforests of southern Central African Republic, the reserve covers an area of around 400 hectares. The two central sectors of the reserve, the Dzanga and the Ndoki, make up the whole of the park.

Lowland Gorilla

Large mammals seen include forest elephants, forest buffalo, giant forest hog, western lowland gorilla and bongos (forest antelope). Also seen are a good collection of sitatunga, warthogs, numerous monkeys, galagoes, leopards and wide range of birds and other species. The park is inhabited by the Ba’Aka [pygmy] tribe who have assisted in building an incredible tourist programme and assist with tracking and guiding.

Activities in this area include visiting the salines at least once a day; lowland gorilla tracking (there is a family of 16 habituated gorillas), bird watching, dug-out pirogue rides along the Sangha River and its tributaries, net hunting with the Ba’aka; medicinal plant examination with the Ba’aka and traditional dances.

Itineraries are set departure and include Dzangha-Sangha National Park, Mbeli Bai and Bai Hokou Research centre. All expeditions are accompanied by a full back up team of locals and specialist guides. Most trips start from Brazzaville, Libreville or Douala.

Nouabale Ndoki National Park

Created in 1993, important populations of forest elephant, western lowland gorillas, chimpanzees and other endangered mammals live in this park. Over 1,000 plant and tree species and 300 bird species also make this their home.

There is an extremely low human population density in the surrounding area, and no human habitation in the Sangha Tri-national zone itself. The Park remains an intact forest ecosystem free of human disturbance or exploitation, with significant populations of large mammals. It is seen as a great success by conservation bodies.

Lobéké National Park

Forest Elephants

The Lobéké National Park falls within the south-eastern corner of the Republic of Cameroon. It is part of the larger Congo Basin forest block with a very low population density. There are a high diversity of plant communities almost untouched by human activity and the forests support high densities of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, bongos and many other forest species. Primate species besides the gorillas include spot-nosed monkey and gray-cheeked mangabey, amongst others.

The forest clearings attract a high number of African grey parrots and green pigeons. The aquatic fauna is extremely rich with more than 62 fish species recorded in the rivers and streams. The rivers have very high populations of shrimp, which are harvested by native tribes.

Local communities include the Bagando and Bakwele, ethnic groups of Bantu origin, and semi-sedentary forager-farmer Ba’aka Pygmies. Small groups of Moslem traders and Congolese, Senegalese and other nationals from West Africa are involved in ivory and gold trafficking.

Forest products such as honey and bush mangoes are widely distributed and harvested by the locals. Mango harvesting mobilizes the entire local population.

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Service Providers

Chilling time at Doli Lodge

Situated on the banks of the great Sangha River in Central Africa, Doli Lodge is the perfect place from which you can explore this wild rainforest, and experience its extraordinary wildlife and traditional communities.

From Doli Lodge you can witness Africa’s greatest concentration of forest elephant as they gather at the “grand central junction” of Dzanga bai—a natural clearing in the rainforest. Led by skilled BaAka trackers, you can follow the striking silverback Makumba, a good-looking gorilla with a tall crest and muscular form, and his habituated group of western lowland gorillas. Hike along elephant paths, through clouds of butterflies, and along bais inhabited by red forest buffalos, herds of busy red river hogs, rare situtunga and bongo antelopes, flocks of noisy African grey parrots, and specials such as Hartlaub’s forest ducks. Join clans of BaAka, traditional hunter-gatherers of the rainforest, as they sing and yodel and search for edible leaves, medicinal bark and roots, and small game to bring back to their villages. Experience Bayanga village life, maybe catch a local game of basketball, and take traditional canoes called pirogues along the Sangha River to see the natural process that produces palm wine from the forest. Meet and learn from our partners and researchers at WWF and WCS, people in the field who are dedicated to conservation and sustainable travel in the Dzanga-Ndoki National Park.

 

An agile wallaby is one of the cutest marsupials you’re likely to see. These little bounders with wide-open eyes and a curious gaze are gathering around my verandah as I try to sleep. The frogs are croaking and the dingoes are baying.

Wildman Wilderness Lodge, 170 km from Darwin, provides a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins on the edge of the Mary River wetlands

This is Wildman Wilderness Lodge, a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins with a central lodge and infinity swimming pool that has opened recently on the edge of the Mary River wetlands between Darwin and Kakadu National Park.

In the wetlands, irritable buffalo and pigs are wallowing in the mud. These feral beasts are in the cross-hairs of a shoot-to-kill eradication program aimed at protecting this 8000-square-kilometre flood plain. They trample among lily pads in ankle-deep water that has the largest concentration of crocodiles in Australia and teems with jabiru, magpie geese and loud, screeching black cockatoos.

One of the crocs here is a five-metre salty named Big Arse, who might be aged 40 years to 60 years and lives in Wildman’s home billabong. Just in case you don’t see him during a resort boat cruise, he is captured in a photo hanging in the main lodge.

I have my tent zipped up tight, not to keep out these wild things but as protection from the mosquitoes, which leave bites like sherbet bombs of itchiness, ready to explode when touched.

Wildman’s tents have polished blackbutt floors, king-size beds loaded with soft pillows and ceiling fans over the beds to stir the hot air. The tents have chic corrugated-tin bathrooms and flushing toilets and each has a writing desk, a mini bar and verandah chairs. Each tent costs about $100,000 to assemble and is finely finished and draped in the best African canvas. They are also equipped with a “survival kit” that includes a wind-up torch, hairdryer, sunscreen and insect repellent, but this is where my troubles start.

I’m too slow to apply the Wildman-issued Aeroguard during an afternoon bush amble with indigenous guide Neddy Tambling and the mosquito bites are now driving me crazy as I lie under the ceiling fan, listening to the creatures and eyeballing the agile wallabies under the outback stars.

During the walk, Tambling takes us to the soggy edges of the wetlands where termite fields, pandanus and paperbark give way to near impenetrable pools, channels, billabongs and rivers. Tambling has us tasting rosella flowers and smelling eucalyptus plants used as bush medicine. He shows us trees used for making spears and tells of hunting file snakes and turtles. He keeps an eye out for crocodiles and, half-jokingly, advises: “Run for a tree if you see a buffalo.” On a routine day, Tambling sees more buffalo than people. “I went to the footy in Melbourne last year to watch my nephew [Richard Tambling] play and I’d never seen so many people together in one place,” he says.

Walking to the edges isn’t the only way to explore the wetlands. We also hop in a helicopter and take a scenic flight, scooting low across the water as buffalo and pigs scurry off. Our pilot, Phil O’Driscoll, tells of catching a crocodile recently to relocate it somewhere safer (safer for people, I guess). “We were dragging it up the river bank with a rope but it was so muddy, we were all slipping down towards it,” he says. “We finally tied the rope to a bullbar on the four-wheel-drive and pulled it out that way.”

Crocodile stories are all around. O’Driscoll drops us in the wetlands at a waiting airboat driven by Robert Townsend. There’s mud between our toes as we scramble aboard for a joy ride, powered by a Chevy V8 that drives a big aeroplane-like propeller at the rear. As we skim across the water’s surface at high speed, small freshwater crocodiles thrash out of the way. The big saltwater crocodiles keep their cool and submerge, leaving only a trace of bubbles. We come across some horses on high ground and Townsend tells of mustering a stranded herd of eight last season with the airboat when a crocodile attacked. “They were swimming in a tight pack and the croc jumped on the back of four of them and started to bite into them but it was too small to take them down. I spent the next few days stitching up horses.”

The helicopter and airboats are in the repertoire of activities at Wildman, owned by Indigenous Business Australia and managed by tourism entrepreneur Grant Hunt, whose Anthology group also has Wilpena Pound Resort, Cradle Mountain Huts and Bay of Fires Lodge.

At a more gentle pace than the chopper and airboat, Wildman’s executive chef, Aaron Lee, provides cooking demonstrations over the outdoor fire-pit, where he cooks butter scallops and baby ocean trout with lemon myrtle, rosemary and lime.

“I’ve wrapped the fish in foil today but if we were out camping [real camping, without luxury tents, I presume], then I’d use paperbark,” he says. The open fire is a focus at the lodge and is surrounded by wraparound, sofa-style seating perfect for sunset with drinks.

To the right of us are the tents and to the left are cabins called “habitats”. They have been relocated from the defunct luxury Wrotham Park Station, 2800 kilometres away in Queensland, and provide airconditioned comfort.

As we watch the sun dip and the frogs and cicadas start their cacophony, the mosquito activity increases and I know it’s time to move inside.

Location (12° 31′ 40″ S, 131° 34′ 0″ E)

View Wildman Wilderness Lodge in a larger map

Ruvuma River

Formerly also known as the Rovuma River, this is a river in East Africa, forming during the greater part of its course the border between Tanzania and Mozambique (in Mozambique known as Rio Rovuma). It is 800 kilometres (497 mi) long, with a drainage basin 155,500 square kilometres (60,000 sq mi) in size. Its mean annual discharge is 475 m³/s (16,774 cfs) at its mouth.

Moja Mekoro across the Lugenda River

The lower Ruvuma is formed by the junction of two branches of nearly equal importance, the longer of which, the Lujenda, comes from the south-west, the other, which still bears the name Ruvuma, from the west. Its source lies on an undulating plateau, 3,000 ft. high, immediately to the east of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi), the head-stream flowing first due west before turning south and east.

In its eastward course the Ruvuma flows near the base of the escarpment of an arid sandstone plateau to the north, from which direction the streams, which have cut themselves deep channels in the plateau edge, have almost all short courses.

On the opposite bank the Ruvuma receives, besides the Lujenda, the Msinje River and Luchulingo River, flowing in broad valleys running from south to north. The Lujenda rises in proximity to Lake Chilwa, in the small Lake Chiuta (1,700 ft.), the swamps to the south of this being separated from Chilwa only by a narrow wooded ridge. The stream which issues from Chiuta passes by a swampy valley into the narrow Lake Amaramba, from which the Lujenda finally issues as a stream 80 yards wide.

Lower down it varies greatly in width, containing in many parts long wooded islands which rise above the flood level, and are often inhabited. The river is fordable in many places in the dry season. At its mouth it is about a mile wide.

The lower Ruvuma, which is often half a mile wide but generally shallow, flows through a swampy valley flanked by plateau escarpments containing several small backwaters of the river. The mouth is near 10° 28′ S, 40° 30′ E, the boundary near the coast being formed by the parallel of 10° 40′. The length of the Ruvuma is about 500 miles.

Niassa Reserve

is a nature reserve in Cabo Delgado Province and Niassa Province, Mozambique. Covering over 42,000 km² (10,000,000 acres), it is the largest protected area in the country. The reserve is part of the Trans-Frontier Conservation Area and links to the Tanzanian Selous Game Reserve. It will connect to the Lake Niassa Reserve when it is completed.

Elephants at Inselberg

The northern border is formed by the Rovuma River, which also forms the border with Tanzania. The Lugenda River forms the border to the southeast, Luatize River to the southeast, and Lussanhando River to the west. Niassa Reserve is twice the size of Kruger National Park and comparable to the total area of Wales, Denmark or Massachusetts.

Niassa is part of the Eastern Miombo woodlands, which also encompasses parts of Tanzania and Malawi. The reserve is one of the largest miombo woodland preserves in the world, with miombo forest covering half of the preserve. The remainder is mostly open savannah, with some wetlands and isolated patches of forest. 95% of the preserve’s biomass is vegetation, which includes 21 types of plant matter and 191 species of trees and shrubs.

Niassa Preserve boasts an African wild dog population of over 200, significant for an endangered mammal with a global population estimated at 3000. The park boasts a sable antelope population of 9000, an elephant population of 12000, over 400 bird species, and large populations of Cape buffalo, impala, wildebeest, zebra and leopards. The area has three endemic species – the Niassa wildebeest, Boehm’s zebra, and Johnston’s Impala.

The reserve is home to Mecula Mountain, located at the center of the park with a height of 1,441 metres (4,730 ft).

The wildlife remains free and unfettered and the results of an aerial census in 2002 estimated over 12 000 elephant, 9 000 Sable Antelope and several thousand Cape Buffalo. Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest, eland and zebra roam the plains and river valleys against a backdrop of towering inselbergs (or island mountains) that dominate the topography here.

Niassa National Reserve is truly a Mozambique wildlife paradise, providing refuge for over 200 endangered Cape Hunting Dog (African Wild Dog), as well as other predators such as lion, leopard and Spotted Hyena, and general game such as kudu, bushbuck, impala, wildebeest, waterbuck, reedbuck and hippo. Three sub-species, the Niassa Wildebeest, Boehm’s Zebra and Johnston’s Impala are endemic to the Niassa area. This is one of the last areas in the world where such a wide array of wildlife thrives without any management by man.

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Tent and Elephant at Lugenda

Lugenda Wilderness Camp offers the ultimate pioneering safari amidst an Africa still wild and untrammeled. Nestled along the eastern bank of the Lugenda River, this elegant and intimate camp accommodates just 16 people in luxurious east-African styled tents.

Kenton-on-Sea is a quaint seaside village situated between the Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers, along the Sunshine Coast – Eastern Cape, South Africa.

Kariega River - seen from Stanleys

Fishermen are spoilt for choice including deep sea ski boat angling, with launches off  Middle Beach or the Kariega River Mouth,  scuba diving and spearfishing, rock, surf and gully fishing between the two river mouths, and river angling and crabbing in the two tidal rivers.

Whale and dolphin watching are a rewarding excursion in coastal waters; private game reserves include Kariega, Sibuya, Amakala, Pumba, Kwandwe and Shamwari. Addo Elephant National Park is only a short drive away.

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Dunwerkin Self-Catering

Dunwerkin offers self catering accommodation in 2 two bedroom units. Each bedroom has en-suite facilities and apartments have a comfortable living area. Full DSTV and DVD player, private patio with Weber braai, patio furniture, infrared patio heater and retractable all weather awning, under-floor heating and ceiling fans in living areas and bedrooms make this an up-market luxury establishment. Situated in a quiet and secluded area, Dunwerkin is only a five-minute walk from shops, restaurants, the Kariega River and lagoon and Kenton Beach.

Kariega - River Lodge exterior

Kariega Private Game Reserve is bordered in the east and west by the picturesque Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers. Take in the unique eco-systems of the rivers on a tranquil boat cruise. The twice-daily safari drives on open landcruisers offer a unique combination of exciting lion, elephant and Big 5 game viewing and expansive variety of fauna, flora and birdlife in a landscape that incorporates two majestic river valleys and five different eco-systems. Luxury accommodation and fine dining in 4 separate game lodges nestled into the African bush allows guests to unwind in comfort as they settle into the ordered rhythms of nature.

Sibuya Forest Camp

Sibuya Game Reserve, covering well over 2000 hectares of very varied terrain and vegetation, has more navigable river than any other game reserve in South Africa. From the moderately open river plains, through the pristine lower Albany thicket, there are also patches of Cape Fynbos and a windswept, grassy plateau favoured by many of the larger grazing animals. The delightfully scenic Kariega River estuary winds its way through heavily wooded thickets on steep slopes before opening out onto wide, grassy flats and sandbanks just upstream of the river’s mouth into the Indian Ocean. Bird enthusiasts have a fair chance of spotting the elusive Narina Trogon, while sightings of other exquisitely colourful birds such as Knysna Turacos, Sunbirds and Kingfishers are frequent. For those impressed by size, there are Ostriches, Denham’s Bustards, Secretarybirds, Crowned Eagles, Fish Eagles, Spurwing Geese, Goliath Herons and many more. Sibuya offers luxury tented accommodation in the River Camp and the Forest Camp.

The river is “The Gambia”. Literally, the country exists as a small strip of land area to either side of the river. People say: “The Gambia River is the Gambia and the Gambia is the River”. It is a major tourist attraction and the dominant feature running through the heart of the country.

Fishing Fleet in Banjul

This West African waterway is approximately 700 miles (1,130 km) long, rising in the Fouta Djallon plateau in Northern Guinea, flowing generally northwest through SE Senegal then west, dissecting The Gambia, to the Atlantic Ocean at Banjul. The river is navigable in most of its length. Ocean-going vessels can reach Georgetown (Janjangbureh), about 175 miles (280 km) upstream. The river provides access to interior sections of Senegal and Guinea. About 70 per cent of its catchment of 77,000 km² lies less than 100 m above sea level; 30 % below 40 m. The tide (and navigation) intrudes to 460 km upstream of Banjul and thus defines the estuary and the greater part of the boundary between The Gambia an Senegal.

About 42,000 km² of the catchment area is situated above the hydrologic station at Gouloumbo (km 492). Of the 35,000 km² area downstream of this point, 10,500 km are in the Gambian territory.

In 1978, Senegal and The Gambia formed the Gambia River Development Organization (which was joined by Guinea in 1980) for the purpose of developing the river’s natural resources. The objective of the project is to increase agro-forestry and pastoral output, rationalise tapping of the natural resources and improve the infrastructures and social services of the project area.

The river ecology is divided into two different zones, estuarine and freshwater, which in turn largely determine the peripheral vegetation pattern. Salt water sneaks in some 150 km (95 mi) upstream, as far as Kantaur in the dry season (November to June). In the lower estuary, mangroves dominate the riverside, with extensive reed belts in the in-between zone, while where the water is fresh, the banks are lined with gallery forest.

Up river, the water wildlife is more interesting where you can see crocodiles, dolphins and hippos. The main feature along the river is the incredible variety of birds and most of the bird trips are boat trips along the creeks of The Gambia at dawn or dusk.

There are boat trips and fishing voyages, but too little is now made of the river in tourist terms though there are tour companies operating river tours and fishing safaris at the mouth of the river and upstream. There are camps at Tendaba and Georgetown specialising in watching and spotting the amazing variety of species that abound in this tiny country.

If you travel to Banjul, think of taking the ferry to Barra just for the trip and its sights and sounds. Fort Bullen at Barra Point was built by the British 200 years ago to cover the approaches to Banjul and the river, succeeding James Island Fortress (destroyed by the French) as the main point of defence in the colony. It can be reached by direct ferry from the capital. Oyster Creek is the centre of an area of creeks and waterways which can be visited from Banjul. This area is part of the Tanbi Wetlands.

The river is also closely linked with the slave trade, the remains of slave trading posts can be seen along its length and the Roots books brought prominence to Albreda near Juffure Village from where Kunte Kinte was enslaved. Albreda was the main French trading post before they withdrew from The Gambia. Nearby is the village of Juffure, the home of the ancestors of black American writer Alex Haley, author of ‘Roots’. Visitors who want to see more of the countryside may cross by ferry from Banjul to Barra and travel by road to Juffureh and Albreda (the journey lasts about 50 minutes), and then by canoe to James Island in the calm waters of the River Gambia.

The popular tourist destination of Tendaba is 160 km (100 miles) from Banjul by river or road. Further upriver, the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau have now been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old. Georgetown was the ‘second city’ of colonial days, and is still the administrative and trading centre of the region. Basse Santa Su is the major trading centre for the upper reaches of the Gambia River. Handsome trading houses built at the turn of the century can be seen there. By the riverside at Perai Tenda can be found a multitude of abandoned shops formerly operated by European, Gambian and Lebanese merchants in the days when up-river commerce offered substantial profits for private traders.

The Tarangire National Park was established in 1970 and excels in beauty and scenery. The park’s main feature is the Tarangire River winding like an enormous snake through the landscape, the source of life for the many animals that gather on the river banks in the dry season. Another mayor characteristic is the giant baobab trees that dot the hilly terrain.

Tarangire National Park

The park, with its 2 850 km², is the sixth largest park in Tanzania and often visited as part of ‘northern circuit safaris’. The southern part of Tarangire National Park is relatively unknown and contains an enormous swampy area called Silale, inaccessible during the wet season.

Tarangire is one of the best places to see elephants in Tanzania. Often red in color (the soil contains a lot of iron), the elephants come in big numbers to the riverbed in the dry season to quench their thirst. Since the riverbank in the north is quite high, elephant viewing can be absolutely stunning. There are a number of other animals that are worth mentioning. Tarangire is home to tree-climbing African pythons (they normally live on the ground) and, just like Lake Manyara National Park and Mikumi National Park, tree-climbing lions. The gerenuk and fringed-eared-oryx give the park extra flavor, as they can’t be seen anywhere else in Tanzania.

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Oliver’s Camp - fly camp on a walking safari

Located in the middle of the Tarangire wilderness, Oliver’s Camp overlooks a much wider eco-system: The Ngorongoro highlands, the Great Rift Valley, the Lake Manyara region and of course Tarangire National Park itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are the specialties here, and the only 8 beautifully furnished guest tents provide for an intimate experience.

Sanctuary Swala is located in an exceptionally private section of Tarangire National Park, offering visitors a luxurious and very exclusive safari experience. Sanctuary Swala, which has twelve tents, has recently been completely rebuilt to the highest eco-friendly standards. From the entrance of the park it is another 67 km to  Sanctuary Swala. The road winds through the park and offers some spectacular game viewing en route to the camp. Kuro airstrip is approximately 30 minutes drive from Swala. There is a once a day scheduled light aircraft flight into Kuro from Arusha.

Sanctuary Swala Tented Camp

Built on top of a high bluff with a breathtaking panorama, the simple Tarangire Safari Lodge offers one of the best views in Africa: the Tarangire River, a favorite watering place, attracts impressive numbers and variety of game. The lodge is only 10km from the north gate, and is served by a well maintained dirt road.

Hidden among the kopjes lies Tarangire Sopa Lodge, surrounded by ancient baobab trees. It is the home of the greatest concentration of elephants in Africa and other game, including the elusive leopard. Over 400 bird species can be spotted here as well. With water constantly available in the area, the greenery is lush providing a wonderful contrast to the burnt ground. Close to the north gate, the lodge is about 2 hours drive from Arusha.

With its spacious suites perched high up in the age old Baobab and Marula trees, astride the path of the Elephant Migration, Tarangire Treetops sits alone in a private game reserve bordering Tarangire National Park and the Maasai Steppe. Amid rolling hills with views to Lake Manyara and the Rift Valley wall, only a one-hour drive from the nearest gate, there are 20 luxury tents, built atop tree-attached platforms, overlooking the Tarangire Sand River.

Kikoti Tented Camp is a good value tented camp outside the park itself. Located near to Tarangire Treetops, this lodge shares the same areas as Treetops, and hosts a good population of elephant. A good option for an economical Tarangire visit. With only 10 tents you are guaranteed to enjoy a level of intimacy with the environment denied to all but the most selective traveller. This simple, but beautiful camp harks back to the days when Ralph Lauren was not seen on the bed linen! The balance of the camp is just right with relatively simple but tidy rooms and a stunning communal area with thatched dining area and camp fire. On the whole, this camp, while suffering slightly from being outside the park, is a very good choice for those looking to save a bit of money but still have a really authentic experience.

In the west of Tarangire National Park, the very basic Mawe Ninga Tented Camp has an impressive position on a high kopje, overlooking the soda lake of Lake Burungi, with Lake Manyara in the far distance. The best vista is across the small central bridge to the dramatic campfire, sited on the edge of a large rounded boulder. Mawe Ninga’s 12 canvas tents are raised on high wooden decks. Some are cantilevered from boulders to lend vertiginous, but spectacular, views from small verandas. The tents are internally divided to create a bedroom and bathroom/dressing area, and facilities are very simple. There are no resident guides at this camp, so you must visit with your own safari guide.

The Limpopo is the second largest river in Africa that drains to the east, after the Zambezi River. Around 1 750 kilometers long, it starts at the confluence of the Marico and Crocodile rivers in South Africa and flows in a great arc, first zig-zagging northeast and north, then turning east and finally southeast. It serves as a border for about 640 km, separating South Africa on the southeast bank from Botswana in the northwest and Zimbabwe on the north.

Limpopo River - Mapungubwe

Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site is rich in biodiversity, great scenic beauty and the cultural importance of the archaeological treasures of Mapungubwe. On Mapungubwe Hill, a far developed African civilisation prospered between 1200 and 1270 AD. The area was already inhabited by a growing Iron Age community from 900 AD and became rich through trade with Egypt, India and China.

The Limpopo’s main tributary is the Olifants River (Elephant River). Other major tributaries include the Shashe River, Mzingwane River, Crocodile River, Mwenezi River and Luvuhu River.

The port town of Xai-Xai, Mozambique is on the river near its mouth. Below the Olifants, the river is permanently navigable to the sea, though a sandbar prevents access to larger ships, except at high tide.

Originating just north of Makhado, the perennial Luvuvhu River follows a 200 km course along the southern edge of the Zoutpansberg and eventually joins the Limpopo River in the far north-east of the Kruger National Park, on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique.

Luvuvhu River - Pafuri road bridge

Upon leaving the Zoutpansberg, the Luvuvhu runs  south past the eastern edges of Makhado, to head east into the Albasini Dam. From there, it traverses Vhenda agricultural settlements to reach Thohoyandou. Nandoni Dam (Nandoni means “the iron smelting ovens”) is situated just a few kilometers from Thohoyandou in the district of Vhembe in Limpopo province.

Near the western Kruger National Park border, in the steep Lanner Gorge, the Mutale River joins the Luvuvhu River.

The area between the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers has been proposed as a Ramsar site. This area will fall within the proposed Gaza-KNP-Gonarezhou Transfrontier Park. The high biodiversity in this area can be attributed to the geographic location as well as the diversity of landscape features. Three biomes converge in the Pafuri area, and nine geological features with contrasting rock types are found, including quartzite, sandstone, mudstone, shale and basic lavas.

Extensive areas of floodplain alluvium occur at the confluence of the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers. Several landscape features are found in this wetland, which include riverine forest, riparian floodplain forest, floodplain grassland and river channels and pans.

The riverine forest is confined to the riverbanks. It consists of large, broad canopied trees more than 20 m in height. The river is extremely popular with crocodiles, both inside and outside of the National Park. Incidents with local fishermen are common.

In the early 1900’s Crook’s Corner used to be a smuggler’s paradise for hunters, smugglers and poachers, hence its nickname. The outlaws used to camp here and “jump” from one country to another to avoid being arrested for smuggling ivory and gold.

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Luvuvhu River - The Outpost

The Outpost lies in a vast wilderness area in the northernmost part of Kruger National Park. Italian born architect Enrico Daffonchio designed this multiple-award winning lodge. Using simple, clean lines and combining elements of steel, concrete and open space, the unashamedly contemporary design of The Outpost emphasizes its beautiful surrounds but blends and preserves the wilderness that is its home.

Pafuri Camp lies in the wildest and most remote part of the Kruger National Park and offers varied vegetation, great game viewing, the best birding in all of the Kruger, and is filled with folklore of the early explorers and ancient civilisations. It is well known for its fever tree forests, beautiful gorges and Crook’s Corner, where the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and three countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique, meet.

The Pafuri Walking Trail invites you to walk through one of the most remote and diverse places in the Kruger: the riverine areas of the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and secret perennial springs interspersed with rugged baobab-dotted kopjes that jut from mopane woodland. Endless vistas across palm-studded floodplains, acacia woodland and ethereal riverine forest combine excellently with wildlife and bird encounters.

There are at least three Olifants Rivers in South Africa – in the Western Cape, the Southern Cape and the one originating in Mpumalanga. That’s the one we’re really interested in: it flows north through Witbank Dam and Loskop Dam and is forced east by the Transvaal Drakensberg. Cutting through at the Abel Erasmus Pass to flow east, joining the Letaba River, the Olifants crosses into Mozambique to become the Rio dos Elefantes. It flows into the Shingwedzi and the Limpopo River before entering the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai, north of Maputo.

Olifants River - Kruger National Park

On its course, the Olifants River traverses some of the most industralized mining areas, but also some of the most scenic and well-developed touristic areas of South Africa; Witbank and Loskop Dams are popular week-end and holiday destinations offering a variety of watersport activities.

Loskop Dam Nature Reserve covers approximately 22 850 ha, which includes about 2 350 ha surface area of the dam. The reserve surrounds the Loskop Dam reservoir, 55 km north of Middelburg. The topography of the reserve is extremely hilly with deeply carved drainage lines leading to the valley bottoms. A variety of woodland covers the hillsides. On warmer north facing slopes Red Bushwillow, Large-fruited Bushwillow and Hornpod Tree are among the common species. On south-facing hillsides trees are smaller and more widely space with Common Sugarbush and Common Hookthorn dominating. Large Transvaal Beech, with their furrowed bark giving an ancient appearance, occur at the base of the south facing hillsides, while elegant wild Syringa form an open woodland on flat country and footslopes. A complexity of grass species grow among the trees in this bushveld landscape which turns from the verdant green of the wet summer months, to a tantalizing mix of copper and gold as leaves begin to fall in autumn. Principal game species include white rhino, hippo, crocodile, buffalo, and fine herds of plains antelope species. The presence of the dam means that there is ample water throughout the year offering excellent wildlife photo opportunities. Birdlife is both varied and abundant due to the transitional nature of the highveld and sourveld habitats.

The Blyde-Olifants Conservancy (BOC) aims to establish, through its membership of privately owned game farms, a 17,000 hectare big game reserve with the potential to grow over time to in excess of 21,000 hectares. The imperative behind the establishment of the reserve is to increase the range of small privately owned farms by removing the internal boundary fences between them to develop a larger, more biodiverse and genetically viable game conservation reserve.

The Olifants Camp is situated on top of a hill which towers several hundred feet over the Olifants River, offering stunning views from the lookout platforms to the river below. The area plays host to most of the Kruger National Park’s classic larger game. Elephant are common in the area, baboon and vervet monkey both inhabit the camp, as do fruit bats and thick-tailed bush babies. Lion and leopard are regularly seen on game drives. Cape clawless otter has been seen from the Olifants lookout point on the gravel road to Letaba.