The sparsely populated Republic of the Congo is a surprising central African gem with seemingly endless pristine tropical forest and fingers of moist savannah covering its interior.

boating on the Mambili River

Odzala-Kokoua National Park (OKNP) lies is the remote north of the country, on the border with Gabon. It’s right in the heart of the Congo Basin, the world’s second largest expanse of tropical rainforest. Aside from a host of forest biodiversity, it holds Africa’s densest population of Western Lowland Gorillas. It is also renowned as the richest forest block in central Africa for primates species with eleven diurnal species recorded.

Activities range from gorilla tracking (habituated groups), pirogue rides along lush river systems, night drives in the savannah, walks along lush forest streams and salines, and of course time spent at the productive forest bais.

Odzala-Kokoua National Park

Odzala-Kokoua is one of Africa’s oldest national parks, having been proclaimed by the French administration in 1935. It covers some 13600 square kilometres (1.360 million hectares) of pristine rain forest and is an integral part of both the Congo Basin and the TRIDOM Transfrontier Park overlapping Gabon, Congo and Central African Republic. It holds globally significant populations of Western Lowland Gorilla and Forest Elephant as well as a plethora of other species: 430 bird species and more than 100 mammal species of which around 50 are classified as medium- or largesized.

Odzala has the highest number (11) of diurnal primates for any forest block in central Africa, as well as Africa’s highest density of Western Lowland Gorillas and central Africa’s highest density of Chimpanzees.

Bais

Bai

Bais, or salines, are swampy, grassy areas that are dotted across the rainforest and which offer a rare chance to catch a glimpse beyond the ‘green curtain’ into the lives of the forest dwellers. Various mammal species come to the bais on a regular basis in order to access various elements from minerals and salts, to sedges and water loving grasses to water. These bais range in size from less than a hectare to more than 10 hectares and represent the best chance of seeing forest wildlife. Viewing at the bais takes place from raised platform hides, or miradors, and requires patience. The bais we visit in Odzala-Kokoua are relatively small and as a result offer the opportunity for close up viewing of various species.

Western Lowland Gorilla

Western Lowland Gorilla

There are two species of gorilla found in Africa, the Western Gorilla Gorilla gorilla and the Eastern Gorilla Gorilla beringei. The Eastern Gorilla consists of two subspecies, the well-known Mountain Gorilla G. b. beringei of Uganda and Rwanda, and the Eastern Lowland Gorilla G. b. graueri of the eastern parts of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Both of these subspecies are considered Endangered. The Western Gorilla also consists of two subspecies, the Western Lowland Gorilla G. g. gorilla principally of Congo (Brazzaville) and Gabon, and the little known Cross River Gorilla G. g. diehli of the border region between Cameroon and Nigeria. Both of these subspecies are considered Critically Endangered as a result of commercial bushmeat hunting, disease epidemics and habitat loss. The very slow rate of reproduction accentuates all these effects. It is the Western Lowland Gorilla that occurs in Odzala and is found here at the highest densities so far recorded for the species.

In the area of Ngaga Camp Western Lowland Gorillas live in groups ranging in size from 10 to 25 individuals (average 16-17 animals), usually with one silverback, maybe 5-7 adult females and then a collection of sub-adults, babies and sometimes subordinate males. In this high density area, home range size is between just less than 4km2 and just over 8km2 (average 5-6km2 or 2 square miles). Movements within the home range depend on seasonal utilization of key food types. Staple foods for example include leaves, shoots and plant material, but the seasonal availability of fruit is crucial in the diet and influences group foraging movements.

Born at 2kg (4.5lbs), female Western Lowland Gorillas will grow to around 70kg (150lbs) in weight, while the much larger males might reach 180kg (390lbs) and stand 1.8m (6 feet) in height.

Gorilla Tracking

Gorilla Tracking

Western Lowland Gorillas can be observed in two different ways while in Odzala: either through tracking habituated groups using the impressive skills of our expert local Mbeti trackers (Okoko Zepherin and Okele Gabin), or by patiently waiting at hides on the edge of forest bais for family groups to forage on the sedges (water-loving grasses) there.

As a result of the work done by gorilla researchers Dr Magda Bermejo and German Illera, a number of habituated groups can be tracked and observed in the area around Ngaga Camp. In this extended 30km2 (11.5 square miles) area there are no fewer than 7 groups totalling 105 individual gorillas. Two of these groups are usually accessed by our guests while a third is observed primarily for research purposes. Other groups are also seen on a regular basis.

Given that Ngaga Camp is situated at an overlap between the home ranges of three different gorilla groups and close to another three, tracking expeditions do not cover enormous distances and can range in length from 1-8km (0.5-5 miles) over undulating country. The undergrowth can be thick however and, including the time spent with a gorilla group, excursions can last between 2 and 5 hours.

Gorilla viewing protocol is based on the guidelines issued by the IUCN for great ape viewing and is very similar to that of Rwanda/Uganda. Protocols are designed specifically to limit behavioural impact and also potential disease transmission from humans to gorillas. They are critical for gorilla conservation.

• Minimum age for gorilla viewing is 15 years – this is for reasons of safety but also for possible disease transmission, with children under this age more prone to infection.
• Maximum proximity to gorillas is 7 metres (22 feet). It is not permitted to approach more closely and we typically view the animals at 10-15m (32-50 feet).
• Maximum viewing duration of any group is 1 hour per day. Each group is only visited once per day, but if guests would like to spend more than an hour with gorillas on a particular day and time allows it is possible to track a different group following the first encounter.
• Maximum number of guests per gorilla tracking excursion is 6.
• Guests that display cold, flu or other respiratory tract symptoms, will not be allowed to track gorillas.
• No food is permitted on gorilla tracking excursions, nor is smoking allowed. Hand washing facilities are provided at Ngaga Camp prior to gorilla tracking.
• While gorilla sightings and encounters are very reliable, viewing is dependent on variables such as weather and tracking conditions.

The Boteti River (also Botletle River) is a natural watercourse in Botswana. It derives flow from the core Okavango Delta through the Thamalakane River in Maun. It flowed year-round before the mid 1990s, after which decreasing flows led to seasonal desiccation in some lower reaches. In the rainy season the Boteti discharges to the Makgadikgadi Pans, bringing that area alive with seasonal activity and high biological productivity. In the dry season the Boteti is particularly important to provide wildlife an area to congregate, since most seasonal ponds and drainages are devoid of water.

The Boteti flows out of the Thamalakane River swamp at Toteng, then flows northestward past Tlkaseoulo, over Ghautsa Falls, and then flows east past the villages of Makalamabedi, Muekekle and Matima, and then at Kwaraga it turns south past the villages of Phukumakaku, Sukwane, Rakops (Jakops), and Xhuma (Khomo). It then flows past Lake Xau (or in a very wet year into and out of Lake Xau) and then heads east past the village of Mopipi (Madista) and into the Ntwetwe Pan.

Boteti River towards Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

The Boteti stretches from Ngamiland to the main Boteti District where it is used to fill the Mopipi Dam, which is important to the many diamond mines of the area, particularly the Orapa diamond mine. The diversion of the river has left many residents without an adequate source of fresh water; moreover, they could no longer enjoy fishing and other activities in the river.

In the early and mid 20th century the lower Boteti, below Sukwane, was a major grain producing area, with over 2,000 ha. under cultivation at late as 1980. However, the number and extent of wet years has declined, and the river was channelized below Rakops to increase flow to the Mopipi Dam.

This river stopped flowing in 1993 due to shifting tectonic activity under the Delta. The Boteti River is now reliant on the flooding levels of the Kavango River and the Okavango Delta and therefore ranges from periods of ample water and droughts.

However, its riverbanks are steep and afford excellent views of the riverbed, to which animals flock in the winter months as the pans dry up. Game viewing on the banks of the Boteti River can be very exciting. Roughly three percent of the Okavango Delta’s waters flow away through the Boteti River and two other channels. This outflow sustains the Delta’s fresh water ecosystem as it carries away salts and various minerals, which would settle in the Delta.

service providers

Service Providers

Meno a Kwena Tented Camp

Situated on the high southern bank of the Boteti River, Meno a Kwena (Tooth of the Crocodile) is owned and run by David Dugmore, a professional guide and photographer. The camp borders the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The charmingly decorated camp is all about experience. Eight tents offer comfortable accommodation, each with its own bathroom, with authentic safari bucket showers (hot water on demand) under a roof of wide African skies. Camp cuisine is cooked on open wood fires and in tin box ovens in the ground. Fresh baked bread from the coals of a hardwood fire is a perennial favorite. The hide-out provides unequaled opportunities for game- and bird watching.

Game drives are arranged in open 4×4 vehicles into the three Kalahari wildlife sanctuaries – Makgadikgadi Pans and Nxai Pan National Parks, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. The area is home to southern Africa’s largest wildebeest and zebra migrations, and a fascinating resource of pre-historic human relicts on what was once the bed of a vast inland lake.

Leroo La Tau

Leroo La Tau (The Lion’s Paw) is situated on the western bank of the Boteti River, northwest of Khumaga Village and about 140 kilometres southeast of Maun. The eastern bank of the Boteti River forms the boundary of the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, which stretches away from the riverbank towards its interior of scrubland and mineral rich grasslands.

With just 12 thatched chalets, each with en-suite bathrooms, a dining room, reading room and bar in the main lodge, expansive wooden decks and a plunge pool, guests can immerse themselves seamlessly into the ultimate wildlife experience in Botswana.

 

Perched on a hillside overlooking the crystal-clear waters of the New River Lagoon, the Lamanai Outpost Lodge provides a jungle experience unlike any other. Adjacent to the spectacular Maya ruins of the Lamanai Archaeological Reserve.

Sunrise on Crab-Catcher Lagoon

‘Lamanai’ means ‘submerged crocodile’, and you only need to observe the 28 mile long spring fed lagoon next to Lamanai Outpost Lodge to find them. Here, amid the remnants of a major Maya city are an astounding variety of habitats ideal for nature adventure activities, departing directly from your cabaña’s doorstep each day.

Or try guided excursions after nightfall to delve into the mysterious nocturnal wilderness of the lagoons and jungle beyond. With most tours departing with only six or fewer guests, your choice of the two activities included per night’s stay is guaranteed to make for a rewarding and a very personal agenda.

Accommodations feature a thatched roof over hardwood interiors that are fully screened and nicely ventilated, and include electricity, refrigerator, and a private bath with hot and cold water. Most of your time at the lodge is likely to be spent leisurely enjoying your veranda.

Lamanai Outpost is one of a very select handful of Belize’s jungle lodges to have been frequently featured on shows and channels as Wild Things, Discovery, Animal Planet, National Geographic Explorer and World Gone Wild. The lodge also earned the distinction of being voted Belize’s Hotel of the Year for 1999 and 2000.

Veranda at the Lodge

Cabaña

Lamanai is all about the activities, tours and wildlife, and the staff make sure you don’t miss anything and make the absolute best use of your time. The energy of the staff and other guests will make 4 hours in an airboat spotting birds pass in a flash and leave you wishing it would never end.

Mayan Ruins

Lamanai is located on the New River Lagoon and is one of the largest sites in Belize. About a hundred buildings have been uncovered including NIO-43, which is the largest ruin of the pre-classic Mayan world. The site is spread across 950 acres.

High Temple at Lamanai

Occupied between 1500 B.C. and the 19^th century, the city of Lamanai had an extremely long lifetime. Greatness was received early as the structure NIO-43 proves. The city went along minding its own business until the first contact with the Spanish. It even lasted long enough for a Franciscan monk to record its original name Lamanay or Lamayna, thus allowing its name to remain what it always has been.

Besides the two Christian churches, reservoir and the sugar mill, most of the structures are distinctively Mayan. The most important of these is NIO-43. Built about 100 B.C, it was preserved in a modified 600 A.D. version. The discovery of this structure was extremely important. In the late classic period most of the ceremonial structures were converted to residential quarters thus slowly weakening the hierarchical order.

First discovered in 1917 it was not until 1974 that the site was seriously excavated and preserved by the Royal Ontario Museum. Before 1974 the site was left untouched except by the occasional passing archaeologist or looter.

The site can only be reached by boat down New River, or by the road from San Felipe, which is usually not accessible during the rainy season.

Lamanai spends its days in the company of the residing families of howler monkeys. The surrounding reserve is rich in wildlife due to the depletion of surrounding forest by the farmlands. There is also a richvariety of waterfowl in the surrounding lagoon. The Lamanai ruins have become a sanctuary for wildlife and history.

Belize

Belize (formerly British Honduras) is a constitutional monarchy, and the northernmost Central American nation. In fact, it straddles the south-eastern rim of Mexico’s famous Yucatan peninsula, due south of Cancun. Belize has a diverse society, comprising many cultures and languages. Even though Kriol and Spanish are spoken among the population, Belize is the only country in Central America where English is the official language. Belize is bordered to the north by Mexico, south and west by Guatemala, and to the east by the Caribbean Sea. Culturally unique among its Central American neighbors, Belize is the only nation in the region with a British colonial heritage.

Location (17° 45′ 51″ N, 85° 44′ 14″ W)

Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Belize in a larger map

Nature lovers consider Gabon an exotic and rare tropical treasure. Yet tourism here still remains almost totally undeveloped. Dense forests rich in wildlife cover 70% of Gabon’s landmass, its vast picturesque coastline is predominantly wild and unspoiled, and its inland and coastal waters teem with myriad species of fish, reptiles and marine mammals.

Elephants on the beach

Loango National Park is a coastline park that encompasses some 1,550 km² of land and is famous for its variety of unspoiled landscapes. Africa’s Last Eden – that is how the ecologist and conservationist Mike Fay referred to Loango National Park in 1997, when he walked 3000 km along the forest corridor between Congo and Gabon, to shine a global spotlight on Africa’s most pristine rainforests and the need to protect them.

Gabon is home to western lowland gorillas, nearly 200 other mammal species and 600 species of birds. In Loango National Park, you have a chance to see amongst others: the smaller forest elephant, red forest buffalo, red river hogs with furry ears, the slender snouted crocodiles, sitatunga, duikers, a variety of monkeys, a huge array of birds, whales (in season), hippos, and of course, western lowland gorillas and chimpanzees.

Can’t miss: the forest elephants and buffalos on the beach – the gorilla sanctuary – the church built by Gustav Eiffel – pristine nature – jungle, savanna, wild beaches, lagoons, mangroves.

Lowland gorilla

But there’s plenty more to discover in the rainforests and waters besides hippos, for Gabon is home to thriving african traditions and more than 8,000 plant species.

After South Africa, the world’s largest concentration and variety of whales and dolphins can be found right off the Loango coast. The area has over 100 kilometres of uninhabited coastline, and humpback and killer whales are easy to observe here (from mid-July to mid-September).

Loango is renowned worldwide as a site for tarpon of record size, as well as many other large saltwater fish.

Gabon’s small population (less than 1.5 million), abundant natural resources, and foreign private investment have helped make Gabon one of the more prosperous African countries, with a longstanding stable political climate.

Activities

Loango National Park - aerial

• Safaris in Loango National Park
• Cultural excursions
• Fishing
• Walking safaris
• Whale-watching
• Expeditions to: Akaka Bush Camp, Evengué Lodge & Fernan-Vaz Gorilla Project, Tassi Savannah Camp, Pte. Ste. Cathérine Beach Camp
• Jungle hikes
• Motor boat trips
• Kayaking excursions
• Hikes of several days’ duration to Petit Loango (for the physically fit!)
• Overnight fly camp on Petit Loango beach
• Beach cycle tour to Tassi Savannah Camp


Surfing hippo

• Sea turtle night patrol
• Deep-sea fishing
• Beach walks
• Beach cycling (depending on tides)
• Viewing animals on the beach
• Mangrove hikes
• The Fernan-Vaz Gorilla Project
• St. Anne’s Catholic Mission, designed by Gustav Eiffel
• Boat trip on the Mpivié River
• Canoeing
• Eco-walks around the island

Special months

Mid-July to mid-September: whale-watching
October to April: elephants and buffalos on the beach
October to February: turtle season
September to March: fishing season

Service Providers

Service Providers

Loango Lodge with Elephant

Lodges and camps vary greatly in terms of what they offer and where they are situated. But wherever you are in Loango National Park, forest, savannah, lagoon, and beach are never very far away.

Loango Lodge features 7 upscale, traditionally decorated bungalows, each with a private terrace and superb views of the tranquil river and the park.

 

 

 

Evengué Lodge - river

Evengué Lodge is located on an island that also is a gorilla sanctuary and reintroduction center run by the Fernan-Vaz Gorilla Project .  The lodge has five comfortable bungalows (one of which floats on the lagoon), each with a private terrace, either facing the lagoon or set in the forest. Nearby is Mission St. Anne, which was designed by Gustav Eiffel.

 

 

 

 

Pte. Ste. Cathérine Beach Camp - beach

Pte. Ste. Catherine Beach Camp is so remote that the only footprints in the sand besides your own are those left by scurrying crabs (or, between October and February, nesting turtles). It is comprised of five cozy Meru tents, each with two single beds, an en-suite bathroom and shower, mounted on a platform with a private terrace under a palm-thatch roof facing the ocean.

 

 

 

 

Akaka Bush Camp - viewing platform

The five-tented Akaka Bush Camp, meanwhile, faces the forest in the remotest part of Loango.  The only way to reach the camp is by boat (2-4 hours from Loango Lodge).  It was on these wild unspoiled beaches of Petit Loango that Nick Nichols shot the famous pictures of surfing hippos for National Geographic.

 

 

 

 

Tassi Savannah Camp - Red Forest Buffalo

Located on the savannah, the Tassi Savannah Camp will give you a much more classical ‘Africa feel’, not easily found elsewhere in densely forested west central Africa. Arrangements are simple with five two-bedded tents, surrounded by primary and secondary forest with wide-open vistas not often found in densely forested Central Africa.

 

The Sangha Tri-National zone was created on the initative of COMIFAC, a conference of the ministers of forests from the countries in the Congo basin. The Sangha River Tri-national Protected area (STN) includes Dzanga Sangha Special Reserve in Central African Republic, Nouabale Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo (Brazzaville) and the Lobeke National Park in Cameroon (with 2 sectors forming the Dzanga Ndoki National Park).

Sangha River

The agreement between the parks was initiated to co-ordinate and police efforts against poaching, ivory/arms trading, illegal fishing and hunting.

Forest bais [clearings] attract numerous forest elephant; there are habituated lowland gorilla and strong populations of wild chimpanzee amongst numerous other species which include bongo and sitatunga. Many endemic birds are found in this area, amphibians, fish and swallowtail butterflies.

The protected areas constitute about 2.8 millions ha. Since they are located away from larger localities and traffic routes, they have been spared by intensive economic uses for a long time. Thus, a unique natural landscape comprising a high density of large mammals has been preserved.

The Dzanga Sangha Reserve

Found in the rainforests of southern Central African Republic, the reserve covers an area of around 400 hectares. The two central sectors of the reserve, the Dzanga and the Ndoki, make up the whole of the park.

Lowland Gorilla

Large mammals seen include forest elephants, forest buffalo, giant forest hog, western lowland gorilla and bongos (forest antelope). Also seen are a good collection of sitatunga, warthogs, numerous monkeys, galagoes, leopards and wide range of birds and other species. The park is inhabited by the Ba’Aka [pygmy] tribe who have assisted in building an incredible tourist programme and assist with tracking and guiding.

Activities in this area include visiting the salines at least once a day; lowland gorilla tracking (there is a family of 16 habituated gorillas), bird watching, dug-out pirogue rides along the Sangha River and its tributaries, net hunting with the Ba’aka; medicinal plant examination with the Ba’aka and traditional dances.

Itineraries are set departure and include Dzangha-Sangha National Park, Mbeli Bai and Bai Hokou Research centre. All expeditions are accompanied by a full back up team of locals and specialist guides. Most trips start from Brazzaville, Libreville or Douala.

Nouabale Ndoki National Park

Created in 1993, important populations of forest elephant, western lowland gorillas, chimpanzees and other endangered mammals live in this park. Over 1,000 plant and tree species and 300 bird species also make this their home.

There is an extremely low human population density in the surrounding area, and no human habitation in the Sangha Tri-national zone itself. The Park remains an intact forest ecosystem free of human disturbance or exploitation, with significant populations of large mammals. It is seen as a great success by conservation bodies.

Lobéké National Park

Forest Elephants

The Lobéké National Park falls within the south-eastern corner of the Republic of Cameroon. It is part of the larger Congo Basin forest block with a very low population density. There are a high diversity of plant communities almost untouched by human activity and the forests support high densities of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, bongos and many other forest species. Primate species besides the gorillas include spot-nosed monkey and gray-cheeked mangabey, amongst others.

The forest clearings attract a high number of African grey parrots and green pigeons. The aquatic fauna is extremely rich with more than 62 fish species recorded in the rivers and streams. The rivers have very high populations of shrimp, which are harvested by native tribes.

Local communities include the Bagando and Bakwele, ethnic groups of Bantu origin, and semi-sedentary forager-farmer Ba’aka Pygmies. Small groups of Moslem traders and Congolese, Senegalese and other nationals from West Africa are involved in ivory and gold trafficking.

Forest products such as honey and bush mangoes are widely distributed and harvested by the locals. Mango harvesting mobilizes the entire local population.

service providers

Service Providers

Chilling time at Doli Lodge

Situated on the banks of the great Sangha River in Central Africa, Doli Lodge is the perfect place from which you can explore this wild rainforest, and experience its extraordinary wildlife and traditional communities.

From Doli Lodge you can witness Africa’s greatest concentration of forest elephant as they gather at the “grand central junction” of Dzanga bai—a natural clearing in the rainforest. Led by skilled BaAka trackers, you can follow the striking silverback Makumba, a good-looking gorilla with a tall crest and muscular form, and his habituated group of western lowland gorillas. Hike along elephant paths, through clouds of butterflies, and along bais inhabited by red forest buffalos, herds of busy red river hogs, rare situtunga and bongo antelopes, flocks of noisy African grey parrots, and specials such as Hartlaub’s forest ducks. Join clans of BaAka, traditional hunter-gatherers of the rainforest, as they sing and yodel and search for edible leaves, medicinal bark and roots, and small game to bring back to their villages. Experience Bayanga village life, maybe catch a local game of basketball, and take traditional canoes called pirogues along the Sangha River to see the natural process that produces palm wine from the forest. Meet and learn from our partners and researchers at WWF and WCS, people in the field who are dedicated to conservation and sustainable travel in the Dzanga-Ndoki National Park.

 

An agile wallaby is one of the cutest marsupials you’re likely to see. These little bounders with wide-open eyes and a curious gaze are gathering around my verandah as I try to sleep. The frogs are croaking and the dingoes are baying.

Wildman Wilderness Lodge, 170 km from Darwin, provides a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins on the edge of the Mary River wetlands

This is Wildman Wilderness Lodge, a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins with a central lodge and infinity swimming pool that has opened recently on the edge of the Mary River wetlands between Darwin and Kakadu National Park.

In the wetlands, irritable buffalo and pigs are wallowing in the mud. These feral beasts are in the cross-hairs of a shoot-to-kill eradication program aimed at protecting this 8000-square-kilometre flood plain. They trample among lily pads in ankle-deep water that has the largest concentration of crocodiles in Australia and teems with jabiru, magpie geese and loud, screeching black cockatoos.

One of the crocs here is a five-metre salty named Big Arse, who might be aged 40 years to 60 years and lives in Wildman’s home billabong. Just in case you don’t see him during a resort boat cruise, he is captured in a photo hanging in the main lodge.

I have my tent zipped up tight, not to keep out these wild things but as protection from the mosquitoes, which leave bites like sherbet bombs of itchiness, ready to explode when touched.

Wildman’s tents have polished blackbutt floors, king-size beds loaded with soft pillows and ceiling fans over the beds to stir the hot air. The tents have chic corrugated-tin bathrooms and flushing toilets and each has a writing desk, a mini bar and verandah chairs. Each tent costs about $100,000 to assemble and is finely finished and draped in the best African canvas. They are also equipped with a “survival kit” that includes a wind-up torch, hairdryer, sunscreen and insect repellent, but this is where my troubles start.

I’m too slow to apply the Wildman-issued Aeroguard during an afternoon bush amble with indigenous guide Neddy Tambling and the mosquito bites are now driving me crazy as I lie under the ceiling fan, listening to the creatures and eyeballing the agile wallabies under the outback stars.

During the walk, Tambling takes us to the soggy edges of the wetlands where termite fields, pandanus and paperbark give way to near impenetrable pools, channels, billabongs and rivers. Tambling has us tasting rosella flowers and smelling eucalyptus plants used as bush medicine. He shows us trees used for making spears and tells of hunting file snakes and turtles. He keeps an eye out for crocodiles and, half-jokingly, advises: “Run for a tree if you see a buffalo.” On a routine day, Tambling sees more buffalo than people. “I went to the footy in Melbourne last year to watch my nephew [Richard Tambling] play and I’d never seen so many people together in one place,” he says.

Walking to the edges isn’t the only way to explore the wetlands. We also hop in a helicopter and take a scenic flight, scooting low across the water as buffalo and pigs scurry off. Our pilot, Phil O’Driscoll, tells of catching a crocodile recently to relocate it somewhere safer (safer for people, I guess). “We were dragging it up the river bank with a rope but it was so muddy, we were all slipping down towards it,” he says. “We finally tied the rope to a bullbar on the four-wheel-drive and pulled it out that way.”

Crocodile stories are all around. O’Driscoll drops us in the wetlands at a waiting airboat driven by Robert Townsend. There’s mud between our toes as we scramble aboard for a joy ride, powered by a Chevy V8 that drives a big aeroplane-like propeller at the rear. As we skim across the water’s surface at high speed, small freshwater crocodiles thrash out of the way. The big saltwater crocodiles keep their cool and submerge, leaving only a trace of bubbles. We come across some horses on high ground and Townsend tells of mustering a stranded herd of eight last season with the airboat when a crocodile attacked. “They were swimming in a tight pack and the croc jumped on the back of four of them and started to bite into them but it was too small to take them down. I spent the next few days stitching up horses.”

The helicopter and airboats are in the repertoire of activities at Wildman, owned by Indigenous Business Australia and managed by tourism entrepreneur Grant Hunt, whose Anthology group also has Wilpena Pound Resort, Cradle Mountain Huts and Bay of Fires Lodge.

At a more gentle pace than the chopper and airboat, Wildman’s executive chef, Aaron Lee, provides cooking demonstrations over the outdoor fire-pit, where he cooks butter scallops and baby ocean trout with lemon myrtle, rosemary and lime.

“I’ve wrapped the fish in foil today but if we were out camping [real camping, without luxury tents, I presume], then I’d use paperbark,” he says. The open fire is a focus at the lodge and is surrounded by wraparound, sofa-style seating perfect for sunset with drinks.

To the right of us are the tents and to the left are cabins called “habitats”. They have been relocated from the defunct luxury Wrotham Park Station, 2800 kilometres away in Queensland, and provide airconditioned comfort.

As we watch the sun dip and the frogs and cicadas start their cacophony, the mosquito activity increases and I know it’s time to move inside.

Location (12° 31′ 40″ S, 131° 34′ 0″ E)

View Wildman Wilderness Lodge in a larger map

‘Where the Water Meets the Sky’, and true to its name, Bangweulu’s endless floodplains of grey-blue waters disappearing into the horizon, blending completely with the color of the sky, make it impossible to tell just where the horizon is.

Likened to Botswana’s great Okavango Delta, the Bangweulu Wetlands are situated in the Northern Province of Zambia. The Bangweulu ecosystem stretches northwards to include Lake Bangweulu and other adjoining smaller lakes, swamps, floodplains, islands and adjoining woodlands above flood levels. Together, the inflowing Chambeshi and outflowing Luapula Rivers form the remote headwaters of the Congo. The region is closely associated with Dr. David Livingstone, who died here at Chief Chitambo’s village.

Bangweulu Wetlands

With a long axis of 75 km and a width of up to 40 km, Lake Bangweulu’s permanent open water surface is about 3,000 km², which expands when its swamps and floodplains are in flood at the end of the rainy season in May. The combined area of the lake and wetlands reaches 15,000 km². The lake has an average depth of only 4 m.

Samfya is the largest town on the Lake, developed in the mid 1900’s as a fishing village. It is very shabby, unordered and scattered, but you can get basic supplies as well as fresh fish. There is a post office, clinic and adequate fuel supplies.

The Great Bangweulu Basin, incorporating the vast Bangweulu Lake and a massive wetland area lies in a shallow depression in the centre of an ancient cratonic platform, the North Zambian Plateau. The basin is fed by 17 principal rivers from a catchment area of 190 000 km² , but is drained by only one river, the Luapula.

The area floods in the wet season between November in March, receiving an average annual rainfall of about 1,200 mm, but 90% of the water entering the system is lost to evapo-transpiration. The resultant effect is that the water level in the centre of the basin varies between one and two meters, causing the floodline to advance and retreat by as much as 45 km at the periphery. It is this seasonal rising and falling of the flood waters that dictates life in the swamps.

The adjacent Kasanka National Park to the immediate South is one of the most picturesque parks in Zambia and contains a rich diversity of animal, bird and plant life. Several rare species are abundant in the park, including sitatunga, wattled crane, Ross’s Lourie and Blue Monkeys. Kasanka is also host to a unique and spectacular congregation of several Million Straw-Colored Fruitbats every November and December. Despite being one of Zambia’s smallest parks at 390 km² (39,000 ha), Kasanka has a wide variety of habitats, each hosting their own associated wildlife. There are 2 permanent lodges in Kasanka, Wasa and Luwombwa.

In August 1872, David Livingstone was on his way from Tabora, where Stanley had left him in March. Near Bangweulu he got bogged down in the swamps but finally reached Chitambo’s village. On May 1, 1873, his servants found him in his tent kneeling in prayer at the bedside. He was dead. His men buried his heart but embalmed the body. Susi & Chuma then carried it to the mission of the Holy Ghost fathers at Bagamoyo. It reached England, where it was identified by the lion wound in the left shoulder. On April 18, 1874, Livingstone was buried in great honor in London’s Westminster Abbey.

The Kwanga Ceremony of the Njumbo tribe takes place in Samfya in October. If you are there at the time it’s worth finding out about for a fascinating insight into local customs and traditional dancing. Any of the locals should be able to tell you the exact date as it changes from year to year, or ask at the Tourist Board in Lusaka.

Flora and Fauna

The lake is exploited more as a fish source than for its tourist potential. This is unfortunate, as it’s beauty is breathtaking. There are rumours of developing a tourist resort and having a luxury cruise boat for hire. But for the moment this is a an interesting stopover for the intrepid vehicle traveller or backpacker.

Fisherman in a Mokoro

The main catches in the Lake are Cychlids (bream, tigerfish, yellow belly) and catfish. About 57 000 metric tons of fish are harvested from the Lake each year. Although fish stocks are not in danger, catches are declining and the favoured species are becoming thinner.

The higher ground surrounding the Bangweulu is dominated by miombo woodland intersected by numerous dambos. The floodplain itself is dominated by grasslands varying in composition according to the depth and duration of annual flooding. For the most part, the swamps consist of areas of open water surrounded by permanent dense stands of Papyrus grass and Phragmites reeds which are only accessible by airboat or shallow canoe via an intricate network of narrow channels.

In contrast, the temporarily inundated floodplains, grasslands and woodlands provide for a greater range of vegetation types and as a consequence a greater diversity in bird and animal species who inhabit these areas at various times of the year.

Black Lechwe

Numerous termite mounds are scattered over a wide area. They are such a feature of this environment that Livingstone once described the Bangweulu floodplain as “a world of water and anthills.” These raised mounds act as small islands safe for any flooding and allow the survival of various tree seedlings. Over time these trees have become well established with the result that a woodland has developed and contains good examples of water berry, Syzygium cordatum, sausage tree Kigelia africana and several figs, to name but a few.

The Bangweulu Wetlands is the last area where the black lechwe (Kobus leche smithemani) occur, with an estimated population at the present time of 100,000 animals. There is also a very high density sitatunga population, and at least 10,000 tsessebe. Remnant populations of elephant, buffalo, hippopotamus and zebra also remain. Bangweulu is an important bird area especially well known as a stronghold of the enigmatic Shoebill, and a large population of Wattled Cranes. Much of the area is lake, swamp, seasonally flooded grasslands and attractive termite-mound woodlands. The Chambeshi and Luapula Rivers, which are the main southern tributaries of the Congo River, if not the source of the Congo itself, rise in the area.

When to go

During the rains (November to March) insects are more prolific but the birdlife is phenomenal. All trips in and around the swamps are by boat. The Chimbwe floodplain will be inundated and to attempt to drive to Shoebill Island Camp will be impossible. There is a raised causeway leading from the last village before the floodplain, Muwele, to Chikuni. A small banana boat is used to reach the Camp from Chikuni, a trip of 4 kms through tall grasses and reeds.

Depending on the extent of the rain during the summer, the floodplain dries out sufficiently to allow the passage of 4×4 vehicles by mid to late April. It is then possible to observe the black lechwe at close quarters and also to reach another raised causeway that leads to Shoebill camp.

By June/July, much of the floodplain is dry and the lechwe have moved closer towards the permanent swamp and Shoebill Camp. It also becomes possible to take walks from the camp and experience the strange sensation of walking on the floating mats of vegetation which grow on the surface of the once open water. While the number of birds around at this time of year is still extensive, the number of species drops with the departure of the summer migrants.

August is very much the middle of winter in the swamps, and although the daytime temperatures are pleasant it can be extremely cold at nights with temperature dropping to freezing.

location

Location (from 10° 52′ 12″ S, 29° 56′ 60″ E to 12° 40′ 12″ S, 30° 43′ 12″ E)

Chiundaponde to Waka Waka

The drive to the southern edge of the swamps where Shoebill and Nsobe camps are, takes about 12 hours from Lusaka, the last stretch of 140 km taking six hours! Take the Great North Road from Lusaka, turn right just after Kapiri Mposhi towards Mpika. Take the Samfya/Mansa road turning left after Serenje. Turn right 10 km after the Kasanka turnoff, towards the Livingstone memorial and remain on this track, keeping right at the memorial fork, for 70 km, towards the village of Chiundaponde.

Another route is to go directly to the Lavushi Manda turnoff on the Great North road, just below Mpika, which leads straight to Chiundaponde. From the village, make your way to Chikuni Island and then straight ahead to Shoebill Camp or left to Nsobe Camp. You can ask for directions at the WWF camp at Chikuni, as it is very easy to get lost after you leave the village.

If driving, make sure you have adequate fuel and spares as this is an extremely remote part of the country and help is a long way off. It is advisable to let someone know when you are leaving and when you expect to arrive or return. There are radio facilities at Shoebill camp and a National Parks & Wildlife Services office at Chiundaponde.

The Postal Services Corporation runs a transport boat from the mainland to the three main islands in Lake Bangweulu: Mbabala, Cishi and Chilubi.

Bangweulu Wetlands in a larger map

Ruvuma River

Formerly also known as the Rovuma River, this is a river in East Africa, forming during the greater part of its course the border between Tanzania and Mozambique (in Mozambique known as Rio Rovuma). It is 800 kilometres (497 mi) long, with a drainage basin 155,500 square kilometres (60,000 sq mi) in size. Its mean annual discharge is 475 m³/s (16,774 cfs) at its mouth.

Moja Mekoro across the Lugenda River

The lower Ruvuma is formed by the junction of two branches of nearly equal importance, the longer of which, the Lujenda, comes from the south-west, the other, which still bears the name Ruvuma, from the west. Its source lies on an undulating plateau, 3,000 ft. high, immediately to the east of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi), the head-stream flowing first due west before turning south and east.

In its eastward course the Ruvuma flows near the base of the escarpment of an arid sandstone plateau to the north, from which direction the streams, which have cut themselves deep channels in the plateau edge, have almost all short courses.

On the opposite bank the Ruvuma receives, besides the Lujenda, the Msinje River and Luchulingo River, flowing in broad valleys running from south to north. The Lujenda rises in proximity to Lake Chilwa, in the small Lake Chiuta (1,700 ft.), the swamps to the south of this being separated from Chilwa only by a narrow wooded ridge. The stream which issues from Chiuta passes by a swampy valley into the narrow Lake Amaramba, from which the Lujenda finally issues as a stream 80 yards wide.

Lower down it varies greatly in width, containing in many parts long wooded islands which rise above the flood level, and are often inhabited. The river is fordable in many places in the dry season. At its mouth it is about a mile wide.

The lower Ruvuma, which is often half a mile wide but generally shallow, flows through a swampy valley flanked by plateau escarpments containing several small backwaters of the river. The mouth is near 10° 28′ S, 40° 30′ E, the boundary near the coast being formed by the parallel of 10° 40′. The length of the Ruvuma is about 500 miles.

Niassa Reserve

is a nature reserve in Cabo Delgado Province and Niassa Province, Mozambique. Covering over 42,000 km² (10,000,000 acres), it is the largest protected area in the country. The reserve is part of the Trans-Frontier Conservation Area and links to the Tanzanian Selous Game Reserve. It will connect to the Lake Niassa Reserve when it is completed.

Elephants at Inselberg

The northern border is formed by the Rovuma River, which also forms the border with Tanzania. The Lugenda River forms the border to the southeast, Luatize River to the southeast, and Lussanhando River to the west. Niassa Reserve is twice the size of Kruger National Park and comparable to the total area of Wales, Denmark or Massachusetts.

Niassa is part of the Eastern Miombo woodlands, which also encompasses parts of Tanzania and Malawi. The reserve is one of the largest miombo woodland preserves in the world, with miombo forest covering half of the preserve. The remainder is mostly open savannah, with some wetlands and isolated patches of forest. 95% of the preserve’s biomass is vegetation, which includes 21 types of plant matter and 191 species of trees and shrubs.

Niassa Preserve boasts an African wild dog population of over 200, significant for an endangered mammal with a global population estimated at 3000. The park boasts a sable antelope population of 9000, an elephant population of 12000, over 400 bird species, and large populations of Cape buffalo, impala, wildebeest, zebra and leopards. The area has three endemic species – the Niassa wildebeest, Boehm’s zebra, and Johnston’s Impala.

The reserve is home to Mecula Mountain, located at the center of the park with a height of 1,441 metres (4,730 ft).

The wildlife remains free and unfettered and the results of an aerial census in 2002 estimated over 12 000 elephant, 9 000 Sable Antelope and several thousand Cape Buffalo. Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest, eland and zebra roam the plains and river valleys against a backdrop of towering inselbergs (or island mountains) that dominate the topography here.

Niassa National Reserve is truly a Mozambique wildlife paradise, providing refuge for over 200 endangered Cape Hunting Dog (African Wild Dog), as well as other predators such as lion, leopard and Spotted Hyena, and general game such as kudu, bushbuck, impala, wildebeest, waterbuck, reedbuck and hippo. Three sub-species, the Niassa Wildebeest, Boehm’s Zebra and Johnston’s Impala are endemic to the Niassa area. This is one of the last areas in the world where such a wide array of wildlife thrives without any management by man.

service providers

Service Providers

Tent and Elephant at Lugenda

Lugenda Wilderness Camp offers the ultimate pioneering safari amidst an Africa still wild and untrammeled. Nestled along the eastern bank of the Lugenda River, this elegant and intimate camp accommodates just 16 people in luxurious east-African styled tents.

Kenton-on-Sea is a quaint seaside village situated between the Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers, along the Sunshine Coast – Eastern Cape, South Africa.

Kariega River - seen from Stanleys

Fishermen are spoilt for choice including deep sea ski boat angling, with launches off  Middle Beach or the Kariega River Mouth,  scuba diving and spearfishing, rock, surf and gully fishing between the two river mouths, and river angling and crabbing in the two tidal rivers.

Whale and dolphin watching are a rewarding excursion in coastal waters; private game reserves include Kariega, Sibuya, Amakala, Pumba, Kwandwe and Shamwari. Addo Elephant National Park is only a short drive away.

service providers

Service Providers

Dunwerkin Self-Catering

Dunwerkin offers self catering accommodation in 2 two bedroom units. Each bedroom has en-suite facilities and apartments have a comfortable living area. Full DSTV and DVD player, private patio with Weber braai, patio furniture, infrared patio heater and retractable all weather awning, under-floor heating and ceiling fans in living areas and bedrooms make this an up-market luxury establishment. Situated in a quiet and secluded area, Dunwerkin is only a five-minute walk from shops, restaurants, the Kariega River and lagoon and Kenton Beach.

Kariega - River Lodge exterior

Kariega Private Game Reserve is bordered in the east and west by the picturesque Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers. Take in the unique eco-systems of the rivers on a tranquil boat cruise. The twice-daily safari drives on open landcruisers offer a unique combination of exciting lion, elephant and Big 5 game viewing and expansive variety of fauna, flora and birdlife in a landscape that incorporates two majestic river valleys and five different eco-systems. Luxury accommodation and fine dining in 4 separate game lodges nestled into the African bush allows guests to unwind in comfort as they settle into the ordered rhythms of nature.

Sibuya Forest Camp

Sibuya Game Reserve, covering well over 2000 hectares of very varied terrain and vegetation, has more navigable river than any other game reserve in South Africa. From the moderately open river plains, through the pristine lower Albany thicket, there are also patches of Cape Fynbos and a windswept, grassy plateau favoured by many of the larger grazing animals. The delightfully scenic Kariega River estuary winds its way through heavily wooded thickets on steep slopes before opening out onto wide, grassy flats and sandbanks just upstream of the river’s mouth into the Indian Ocean. Bird enthusiasts have a fair chance of spotting the elusive Narina Trogon, while sightings of other exquisitely colourful birds such as Knysna Turacos, Sunbirds and Kingfishers are frequent. For those impressed by size, there are Ostriches, Denham’s Bustards, Secretarybirds, Crowned Eagles, Fish Eagles, Spurwing Geese, Goliath Herons and many more. Sibuya offers luxury tented accommodation in the River Camp and the Forest Camp.

The Tarangire National Park was established in 1970 and excels in beauty and scenery. The park’s main feature is the Tarangire River winding like an enormous snake through the landscape, the source of life for the many animals that gather on the river banks in the dry season. Another mayor characteristic is the giant baobab trees that dot the hilly terrain.

Tarangire National Park

The park, with its 2 850 km², is the sixth largest park in Tanzania and often visited as part of ‘northern circuit safaris’. The southern part of Tarangire National Park is relatively unknown and contains an enormous swampy area called Silale, inaccessible during the wet season.

Tarangire is one of the best places to see elephants in Tanzania. Often red in color (the soil contains a lot of iron), the elephants come in big numbers to the riverbed in the dry season to quench their thirst. Since the riverbank in the north is quite high, elephant viewing can be absolutely stunning. There are a number of other animals that are worth mentioning. Tarangire is home to tree-climbing African pythons (they normally live on the ground) and, just like Lake Manyara National Park and Mikumi National Park, tree-climbing lions. The gerenuk and fringed-eared-oryx give the park extra flavor, as they can’t be seen anywhere else in Tanzania.

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Service Providers

Oliver’s Camp - fly camp on a walking safari

Located in the middle of the Tarangire wilderness, Oliver’s Camp overlooks a much wider eco-system: The Ngorongoro highlands, the Great Rift Valley, the Lake Manyara region and of course Tarangire National Park itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are the specialties here, and the only 8 beautifully furnished guest tents provide for an intimate experience.

Sanctuary Swala is located in an exceptionally private section of Tarangire National Park, offering visitors a luxurious and very exclusive safari experience. Sanctuary Swala, which has twelve tents, has recently been completely rebuilt to the highest eco-friendly standards. From the entrance of the park it is another 67 km to  Sanctuary Swala. The road winds through the park and offers some spectacular game viewing en route to the camp. Kuro airstrip is approximately 30 minutes drive from Swala. There is a once a day scheduled light aircraft flight into Kuro from Arusha.

Sanctuary Swala Tented Camp

Built on top of a high bluff with a breathtaking panorama, the simple Tarangire Safari Lodge offers one of the best views in Africa: the Tarangire River, a favorite watering place, attracts impressive numbers and variety of game. The lodge is only 10km from the north gate, and is served by a well maintained dirt road.

Hidden among the kopjes lies Tarangire Sopa Lodge, surrounded by ancient baobab trees. It is the home of the greatest concentration of elephants in Africa and other game, including the elusive leopard. Over 400 bird species can be spotted here as well. With water constantly available in the area, the greenery is lush providing a wonderful contrast to the burnt ground. Close to the north gate, the lodge is about 2 hours drive from Arusha.

With its spacious suites perched high up in the age old Baobab and Marula trees, astride the path of the Elephant Migration, Tarangire Treetops sits alone in a private game reserve bordering Tarangire National Park and the Maasai Steppe. Amid rolling hills with views to Lake Manyara and the Rift Valley wall, only a one-hour drive from the nearest gate, there are 20 luxury tents, built atop tree-attached platforms, overlooking the Tarangire Sand River.

Kikoti Tented Camp is a good value tented camp outside the park itself. Located near to Tarangire Treetops, this lodge shares the same areas as Treetops, and hosts a good population of elephant. A good option for an economical Tarangire visit. With only 10 tents you are guaranteed to enjoy a level of intimacy with the environment denied to all but the most selective traveller. This simple, but beautiful camp harks back to the days when Ralph Lauren was not seen on the bed linen! The balance of the camp is just right with relatively simple but tidy rooms and a stunning communal area with thatched dining area and camp fire. On the whole, this camp, while suffering slightly from being outside the park, is a very good choice for those looking to save a bit of money but still have a really authentic experience.

In the west of Tarangire National Park, the very basic Mawe Ninga Tented Camp has an impressive position on a high kopje, overlooking the soda lake of Lake Burungi, with Lake Manyara in the far distance. The best vista is across the small central bridge to the dramatic campfire, sited on the edge of a large rounded boulder. Mawe Ninga’s 12 canvas tents are raised on high wooden decks. Some are cantilevered from boulders to lend vertiginous, but spectacular, views from small verandas. The tents are internally divided to create a bedroom and bathroom/dressing area, and facilities are very simple. There are no resident guides at this camp, so you must visit with your own safari guide.