The Bloemhof Dam is one of the largest dams in South Africa, covering an area of some 25 000 ha and reaching over 100 km upstream from the dam wall. The dam is fed by the Vaal River.

Bloemhof Dam Wall

Bloemhof Dam Nature Reserve hosts a wide variety of plains game with particularly large herds of springbok, black wildebeest, eland and gemsbok. Over 250 species of birds have been recorded at the reserve including some rare waterfowl on the dam. The reserve hosts several national and international fishing competitions including the Tri-Nations and the Bloemhofdam Bonanza. The Bloemhof Dam is open for all watersports. Powerboat launching facilities are provided. Angling is also permitted on the Vaal River below the dam wall. When visiting the Bloemhof Dam Reserve, take in the dam wall, accessed from the village. A dramatic experience when the river is in full flood.

Giraffes in Sandveld Nature Reserve

Sandveld Nature Reserve, situated on the Free State side of the Bloemhof Dam (at the confluence of the Vaal and Vet Rivers), is the Free State’s top birding spot. Its roughly 37 000 hectares comprise a range of habitats (particularly kalahari Thornveld), and boast a checklist of approximately 295 bird species. A two to three day stay in the pleasant surroundings is recommended. Most habitats are easily accessible. Lists of 70-80 bird species are usual, while up to 150 species may be seen over a weekend in late summer.

Habitats include open water, shoreline, marshy areas, grassland, karoo scrub, kalahari Thornveld savanna and woodland, and sweethorn (acacia karoo) savanna. Some rocky areas are also present.

A good network of gravel roads traverses the different habitats, chalet accommodation, night drives, organised walks, picnic sites for day visitors.

Climate

Generally mild to hot, but can be cold in winter, especially at night.

service providers

Service Providers

Bloemhof Dam Nature Reserve offers a group-camp complex consisting of three self-catering, furnished chalets, with 3 bedrooms each, three dormitory type sleeping halls with six beds each, an ablution block, a kitchen and a small conference or function facility and lapa.

Fishing at Bloemhof Dam

All 3 chalets have 3 bedrooms with 2 single beds in each. They are equipped with linen, except the towels. There is a toilet and shower in the chalet. An open plan kitchen with cutlery and crockery, a built in kitchen unit with wash basin, 2 plate stove and fridge. There is a kitchen table with chairs and a cane lounge set with coffee table. Outside is a lapa for braai. Costs are per person per night plus once off entrance and fishing fee. Chalets are 1.Ѕ km from the dam.

The 3 sleeping halls have 6 single beds in each, and are also equipped with linen except the towels, separate ablution and kitchen with cutlery and crockery, fridge freezer combination, 2 stoves. There is a lapa for braai. Costs are per person per night plus entrance and fishing fee.

Camping at Bloemhof Dam

The log cabins with 2 bunk beds for 4 people are equipped with linen except towels, have toilet and shower inside, a kitchen unit with wash basin and gas stove and fridge. Lights and geyser are solar powered. Cost are for the entire cabin per night. Visitors must bring their own cutlery and crockery.

Camping facilities are available at the angling area.

A thatched hunting camp has been opened on the reserve which can be hired as a unit offering a peaceful environment in the centre of the reserve. There is no electricity at this camp which is powered by solar panels.

Plek Vanni Visarend

Plek Vanni Visarend is located in Bloemhof on the banks of the Vaal river. The lodge can accommodate 32 people. There are 8 rooms available – all 8 rooms can sleep 2 people and each room has “en-suite” bathrooms. Our 1 room has a jacuzzi in the room. There are two 4 bed self-catering units and one 6 bed self-catering unit, each with its own fully equipped kitchen and bathroom and DSTV. All rooms are equipped with a air conditioning.

On the premises there is a restaurant to cater for 250 people. Breakfast/lunch and dinner are served. There is a open bar located on the deck of the restaurant where guests can enjoy a sundowner while looking over the water and watch the sunset.

 

River View Resort

River View Resort is an upmarket holiday destination in Bloemhof that offers a great self-catering stay for the whole family.

Each of the four chalets at River View Resort has three bedrooms and two bathrooms. They are fully equipped including linen and towels. The open-plan kitchen is fully equipped for self-catering, and a TV room with DStv is available. The units have built-in braais, there is air-conditioning in every room. Breakfast, lunch and dinner is available for overnight accommodation.

Guests have access to a heated pool and separate parking. Fishing decks are situated 20 m from the chalets on the banks of the Vaal River.

 

Vrolikheid Gastehuis, situated in a peaceful area in town, offers three bedrooms: 1 double and two twins. It also has a full bathroom, separate shower and separate toilet. There is a lovely lounge with a TV and a fully equipped kitchen, with braai facilities outside. Breakfast will be available on request.

The Boteti River (also Botletle River) is a natural watercourse in Botswana. It derives flow from the core Okavango Delta through the Thamalakane River in Maun. It flowed year-round before the mid 1990s, after which decreasing flows led to seasonal desiccation in some lower reaches. In the rainy season the Boteti discharges to the Makgadikgadi Pans, bringing that area alive with seasonal activity and high biological productivity. In the dry season the Boteti is particularly important to provide wildlife an area to congregate, since most seasonal ponds and drainages are devoid of water.

The Boteti flows out of the Thamalakane River swamp at Toteng, then flows northestward past Tlkaseoulo, over Ghautsa Falls, and then flows east past the villages of Makalamabedi, Muekekle and Matima, and then at Kwaraga it turns south past the villages of Phukumakaku, Sukwane, Rakops (Jakops), and Xhuma (Khomo). It then flows past Lake Xau (or in a very wet year into and out of Lake Xau) and then heads east past the village of Mopipi (Madista) and into the Ntwetwe Pan.

Boteti River towards Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

The Boteti stretches from Ngamiland to the main Boteti District where it is used to fill the Mopipi Dam, which is important to the many diamond mines of the area, particularly the Orapa diamond mine. The diversion of the river has left many residents without an adequate source of fresh water; moreover, they could no longer enjoy fishing and other activities in the river.

In the early and mid 20th century the lower Boteti, below Sukwane, was a major grain producing area, with over 2,000 ha. under cultivation at late as 1980. However, the number and extent of wet years has declined, and the river was channelized below Rakops to increase flow to the Mopipi Dam.

This river stopped flowing in 1993 due to shifting tectonic activity under the Delta. The Boteti River is now reliant on the flooding levels of the Kavango River and the Okavango Delta and therefore ranges from periods of ample water and droughts.

However, its riverbanks are steep and afford excellent views of the riverbed, to which animals flock in the winter months as the pans dry up. Game viewing on the banks of the Boteti River can be very exciting. Roughly three percent of the Okavango Delta’s waters flow away through the Boteti River and two other channels. This outflow sustains the Delta’s fresh water ecosystem as it carries away salts and various minerals, which would settle in the Delta.

service providers

Service Providers

Meno a Kwena Tented Camp

Situated on the high southern bank of the Boteti River, Meno a Kwena (Tooth of the Crocodile) is owned and run by David Dugmore, a professional guide and photographer. The camp borders the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The charmingly decorated camp is all about experience. Eight tents offer comfortable accommodation, each with its own bathroom, with authentic safari bucket showers (hot water on demand) under a roof of wide African skies. Camp cuisine is cooked on open wood fires and in tin box ovens in the ground. Fresh baked bread from the coals of a hardwood fire is a perennial favorite. The hide-out provides unequaled opportunities for game- and bird watching.

Game drives are arranged in open 4×4 vehicles into the three Kalahari wildlife sanctuaries – Makgadikgadi Pans and Nxai Pan National Parks, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. The area is home to southern Africa’s largest wildebeest and zebra migrations, and a fascinating resource of pre-historic human relicts on what was once the bed of a vast inland lake.

Leroo La Tau

Leroo La Tau (The Lion’s Paw) is situated on the western bank of the Boteti River, northwest of Khumaga Village and about 140 kilometres southeast of Maun. The eastern bank of the Boteti River forms the boundary of the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, which stretches away from the riverbank towards its interior of scrubland and mineral rich grasslands.

With just 12 thatched chalets, each with en-suite bathrooms, a dining room, reading room and bar in the main lodge, expansive wooden decks and a plunge pool, guests can immerse themselves seamlessly into the ultimate wildlife experience in Botswana.

 

An agile wallaby is one of the cutest marsupials you’re likely to see. These little bounders with wide-open eyes and a curious gaze are gathering around my verandah as I try to sleep. The frogs are croaking and the dingoes are baying.

Wildman Wilderness Lodge, 170 km from Darwin, provides a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins on the edge of the Mary River wetlands

This is Wildman Wilderness Lodge, a collection of luxury African-style tents and cabins with a central lodge and infinity swimming pool that has opened recently on the edge of the Mary River wetlands between Darwin and Kakadu National Park.

In the wetlands, irritable buffalo and pigs are wallowing in the mud. These feral beasts are in the cross-hairs of a shoot-to-kill eradication program aimed at protecting this 8000-square-kilometre flood plain. They trample among lily pads in ankle-deep water that has the largest concentration of crocodiles in Australia and teems with jabiru, magpie geese and loud, screeching black cockatoos.

One of the crocs here is a five-metre salty named Big Arse, who might be aged 40 years to 60 years and lives in Wildman’s home billabong. Just in case you don’t see him during a resort boat cruise, he is captured in a photo hanging in the main lodge.

I have my tent zipped up tight, not to keep out these wild things but as protection from the mosquitoes, which leave bites like sherbet bombs of itchiness, ready to explode when touched.

Wildman’s tents have polished blackbutt floors, king-size beds loaded with soft pillows and ceiling fans over the beds to stir the hot air. The tents have chic corrugated-tin bathrooms and flushing toilets and each has a writing desk, a mini bar and verandah chairs. Each tent costs about $100,000 to assemble and is finely finished and draped in the best African canvas. They are also equipped with a “survival kit” that includes a wind-up torch, hairdryer, sunscreen and insect repellent, but this is where my troubles start.

I’m too slow to apply the Wildman-issued Aeroguard during an afternoon bush amble with indigenous guide Neddy Tambling and the mosquito bites are now driving me crazy as I lie under the ceiling fan, listening to the creatures and eyeballing the agile wallabies under the outback stars.

During the walk, Tambling takes us to the soggy edges of the wetlands where termite fields, pandanus and paperbark give way to near impenetrable pools, channels, billabongs and rivers. Tambling has us tasting rosella flowers and smelling eucalyptus plants used as bush medicine. He shows us trees used for making spears and tells of hunting file snakes and turtles. He keeps an eye out for crocodiles and, half-jokingly, advises: “Run for a tree if you see a buffalo.” On a routine day, Tambling sees more buffalo than people. “I went to the footy in Melbourne last year to watch my nephew [Richard Tambling] play and I’d never seen so many people together in one place,” he says.

Walking to the edges isn’t the only way to explore the wetlands. We also hop in a helicopter and take a scenic flight, scooting low across the water as buffalo and pigs scurry off. Our pilot, Phil O’Driscoll, tells of catching a crocodile recently to relocate it somewhere safer (safer for people, I guess). “We were dragging it up the river bank with a rope but it was so muddy, we were all slipping down towards it,” he says. “We finally tied the rope to a bullbar on the four-wheel-drive and pulled it out that way.”

Crocodile stories are all around. O’Driscoll drops us in the wetlands at a waiting airboat driven by Robert Townsend. There’s mud between our toes as we scramble aboard for a joy ride, powered by a Chevy V8 that drives a big aeroplane-like propeller at the rear. As we skim across the water’s surface at high speed, small freshwater crocodiles thrash out of the way. The big saltwater crocodiles keep their cool and submerge, leaving only a trace of bubbles. We come across some horses on high ground and Townsend tells of mustering a stranded herd of eight last season with the airboat when a crocodile attacked. “They were swimming in a tight pack and the croc jumped on the back of four of them and started to bite into them but it was too small to take them down. I spent the next few days stitching up horses.”

The helicopter and airboats are in the repertoire of activities at Wildman, owned by Indigenous Business Australia and managed by tourism entrepreneur Grant Hunt, whose Anthology group also has Wilpena Pound Resort, Cradle Mountain Huts and Bay of Fires Lodge.

At a more gentle pace than the chopper and airboat, Wildman’s executive chef, Aaron Lee, provides cooking demonstrations over the outdoor fire-pit, where he cooks butter scallops and baby ocean trout with lemon myrtle, rosemary and lime.

“I’ve wrapped the fish in foil today but if we were out camping [real camping, without luxury tents, I presume], then I’d use paperbark,” he says. The open fire is a focus at the lodge and is surrounded by wraparound, sofa-style seating perfect for sunset with drinks.

To the right of us are the tents and to the left are cabins called “habitats”. They have been relocated from the defunct luxury Wrotham Park Station, 2800 kilometres away in Queensland, and provide airconditioned comfort.

As we watch the sun dip and the frogs and cicadas start their cacophony, the mosquito activity increases and I know it’s time to move inside.

Location (12° 31′ 40″ S, 131° 34′ 0″ E)

View Wildman Wilderness Lodge in a larger map

‘Where the Water Meets the Sky’, and true to its name, Bangweulu’s endless floodplains of grey-blue waters disappearing into the horizon, blending completely with the color of the sky, make it impossible to tell just where the horizon is.

Likened to Botswana’s great Okavango Delta, the Bangweulu Wetlands are situated in the Northern Province of Zambia. The Bangweulu ecosystem stretches northwards to include Lake Bangweulu and other adjoining smaller lakes, swamps, floodplains, islands and adjoining woodlands above flood levels. Together, the inflowing Chambeshi and outflowing Luapula Rivers form the remote headwaters of the Congo. The region is closely associated with Dr. David Livingstone, who died here at Chief Chitambo’s village.

Bangweulu Wetlands

With a long axis of 75 km and a width of up to 40 km, Lake Bangweulu’s permanent open water surface is about 3,000 km², which expands when its swamps and floodplains are in flood at the end of the rainy season in May. The combined area of the lake and wetlands reaches 15,000 km². The lake has an average depth of only 4 m.

Samfya is the largest town on the Lake, developed in the mid 1900’s as a fishing village. It is very shabby, unordered and scattered, but you can get basic supplies as well as fresh fish. There is a post office, clinic and adequate fuel supplies.

The Great Bangweulu Basin, incorporating the vast Bangweulu Lake and a massive wetland area lies in a shallow depression in the centre of an ancient cratonic platform, the North Zambian Plateau. The basin is fed by 17 principal rivers from a catchment area of 190 000 km² , but is drained by only one river, the Luapula.

The area floods in the wet season between November in March, receiving an average annual rainfall of about 1,200 mm, but 90% of the water entering the system is lost to evapo-transpiration. The resultant effect is that the water level in the centre of the basin varies between one and two meters, causing the floodline to advance and retreat by as much as 45 km at the periphery. It is this seasonal rising and falling of the flood waters that dictates life in the swamps.

The adjacent Kasanka National Park to the immediate South is one of the most picturesque parks in Zambia and contains a rich diversity of animal, bird and plant life. Several rare species are abundant in the park, including sitatunga, wattled crane, Ross’s Lourie and Blue Monkeys. Kasanka is also host to a unique and spectacular congregation of several Million Straw-Colored Fruitbats every November and December. Despite being one of Zambia’s smallest parks at 390 km² (39,000 ha), Kasanka has a wide variety of habitats, each hosting their own associated wildlife. There are 2 permanent lodges in Kasanka, Wasa and Luwombwa.

In August 1872, David Livingstone was on his way from Tabora, where Stanley had left him in March. Near Bangweulu he got bogged down in the swamps but finally reached Chitambo’s village. On May 1, 1873, his servants found him in his tent kneeling in prayer at the bedside. He was dead. His men buried his heart but embalmed the body. Susi & Chuma then carried it to the mission of the Holy Ghost fathers at Bagamoyo. It reached England, where it was identified by the lion wound in the left shoulder. On April 18, 1874, Livingstone was buried in great honor in London’s Westminster Abbey.

The Kwanga Ceremony of the Njumbo tribe takes place in Samfya in October. If you are there at the time it’s worth finding out about for a fascinating insight into local customs and traditional dancing. Any of the locals should be able to tell you the exact date as it changes from year to year, or ask at the Tourist Board in Lusaka.

Flora and Fauna

The lake is exploited more as a fish source than for its tourist potential. This is unfortunate, as it’s beauty is breathtaking. There are rumours of developing a tourist resort and having a luxury cruise boat for hire. But for the moment this is a an interesting stopover for the intrepid vehicle traveller or backpacker.

Fisherman in a Mokoro

The main catches in the Lake are Cychlids (bream, tigerfish, yellow belly) and catfish. About 57 000 metric tons of fish are harvested from the Lake each year. Although fish stocks are not in danger, catches are declining and the favoured species are becoming thinner.

The higher ground surrounding the Bangweulu is dominated by miombo woodland intersected by numerous dambos. The floodplain itself is dominated by grasslands varying in composition according to the depth and duration of annual flooding. For the most part, the swamps consist of areas of open water surrounded by permanent dense stands of Papyrus grass and Phragmites reeds which are only accessible by airboat or shallow canoe via an intricate network of narrow channels.

In contrast, the temporarily inundated floodplains, grasslands and woodlands provide for a greater range of vegetation types and as a consequence a greater diversity in bird and animal species who inhabit these areas at various times of the year.

Black Lechwe

Numerous termite mounds are scattered over a wide area. They are such a feature of this environment that Livingstone once described the Bangweulu floodplain as “a world of water and anthills.” These raised mounds act as small islands safe for any flooding and allow the survival of various tree seedlings. Over time these trees have become well established with the result that a woodland has developed and contains good examples of water berry, Syzygium cordatum, sausage tree Kigelia africana and several figs, to name but a few.

The Bangweulu Wetlands is the last area where the black lechwe (Kobus leche smithemani) occur, with an estimated population at the present time of 100,000 animals. There is also a very high density sitatunga population, and at least 10,000 tsessebe. Remnant populations of elephant, buffalo, hippopotamus and zebra also remain. Bangweulu is an important bird area especially well known as a stronghold of the enigmatic Shoebill, and a large population of Wattled Cranes. Much of the area is lake, swamp, seasonally flooded grasslands and attractive termite-mound woodlands. The Chambeshi and Luapula Rivers, which are the main southern tributaries of the Congo River, if not the source of the Congo itself, rise in the area.

When to go

During the rains (November to March) insects are more prolific but the birdlife is phenomenal. All trips in and around the swamps are by boat. The Chimbwe floodplain will be inundated and to attempt to drive to Shoebill Island Camp will be impossible. There is a raised causeway leading from the last village before the floodplain, Muwele, to Chikuni. A small banana boat is used to reach the Camp from Chikuni, a trip of 4 kms through tall grasses and reeds.

Depending on the extent of the rain during the summer, the floodplain dries out sufficiently to allow the passage of 4×4 vehicles by mid to late April. It is then possible to observe the black lechwe at close quarters and also to reach another raised causeway that leads to Shoebill camp.

By June/July, much of the floodplain is dry and the lechwe have moved closer towards the permanent swamp and Shoebill Camp. It also becomes possible to take walks from the camp and experience the strange sensation of walking on the floating mats of vegetation which grow on the surface of the once open water. While the number of birds around at this time of year is still extensive, the number of species drops with the departure of the summer migrants.

August is very much the middle of winter in the swamps, and although the daytime temperatures are pleasant it can be extremely cold at nights with temperature dropping to freezing.

location

Location (from 10° 52′ 12″ S, 29° 56′ 60″ E to 12° 40′ 12″ S, 30° 43′ 12″ E)

Chiundaponde to Waka Waka

The drive to the southern edge of the swamps where Shoebill and Nsobe camps are, takes about 12 hours from Lusaka, the last stretch of 140 km taking six hours! Take the Great North Road from Lusaka, turn right just after Kapiri Mposhi towards Mpika. Take the Samfya/Mansa road turning left after Serenje. Turn right 10 km after the Kasanka turnoff, towards the Livingstone memorial and remain on this track, keeping right at the memorial fork, for 70 km, towards the village of Chiundaponde.

Another route is to go directly to the Lavushi Manda turnoff on the Great North road, just below Mpika, which leads straight to Chiundaponde. From the village, make your way to Chikuni Island and then straight ahead to Shoebill Camp or left to Nsobe Camp. You can ask for directions at the WWF camp at Chikuni, as it is very easy to get lost after you leave the village.

If driving, make sure you have adequate fuel and spares as this is an extremely remote part of the country and help is a long way off. It is advisable to let someone know when you are leaving and when you expect to arrive or return. There are radio facilities at Shoebill camp and a National Parks & Wildlife Services office at Chiundaponde.

The Postal Services Corporation runs a transport boat from the mainland to the three main islands in Lake Bangweulu: Mbabala, Cishi and Chilubi.

Bangweulu Wetlands in a larger map

Carmor Plains Wildlife Reserve, operated by Australia Wide Safaris, comprises 100 000 acres of pristine outback. Only 210 km east of Darwin, a little over 2 hours driving or 30 minutes flight, the reserve is adjacent to Kakadu National Park, a World Heritage Site.

South Alligator River

Scenic flood plains are entirely submerged during the summer rain falls. The higher land is reasonably flat with a high upper canopy of indigenous trees, low shrubs and grasses, but also thick rainforests and springs in some areas. Home to native animals and introduced game, the reserve is a perfect habitat for all wildlife. Crocodiles, water buffalo, wild boar, wild horses, kangaroos, wallabies, goannas and countless varieties of wetland and forest birds are always within viewing distance. Carmor Plains is the only private coastal game reserve with Water Buffalo, Wild Boar, Water fowl and Crocodiles.

Whether it be serious trudging through the bush hunting buffalo, an airboat safari looking for crocodiles or maybe just dinner and wine out on the gazebo deck enjoying the sunset, Carmor Plains offers a unique variety of experiences.

Carmor Plains Air Boat Tours

Air Boat Tours are conducted on the vast 60 000 acres of wetlands. These tours are the most amazing way to see the flora and fauna unique to this part of Australia. The massive wetlands are similar to the Okavango Delta in Botswana or the Everglades of Florida, allowing the opportunity to view an immense range of wetland birds. Some of these are Magpie geese, Pygmy geese and several different species of duck, often in flocks exceeding a thousand individuals. Other wetland birds include various species of Egret, Ibis and Heron and the little Jacana walking on water. Large cranes known as Brolgas and Australia’s only stork, the Jabiru, plus all the predator birds such as Whistling Kites, Sea Eagles and Falcons are constantly circling overhead.

Airboats, the only way to access the grass-covered waterways – often too shallow for conventional boats – travel at over 80km per hour to get to the right spot FAST. Cruise along the edge of plains in a only a few of inches of water, or anchor right amongst the paperbark forests, take in the views and watch the crocs and water fowl in their original environment. This is one of the best ways to observe Magpie Geese rear their young, from the nesting in March until the goslings fly in August. Also, experience Whistling Ducks blacken the sky with flocks of up to 5000 birds. This is only seen in some specific areas of the Northern Territory and Carmor Plains is one of them.

free-roaming feral horses in Australia

And of course, the ever present crocodiles, herds of water buffalo or wild boar, and sometimes a brumby can be spotted.

The best time for Airboat tours is between February and September, but may vary depending on water levels. The climate is most pleasant from May until September, with very slim chances of wet weather. Winter temperatures vary from nightly 14 centigrades to 32 centigrades in the heat of the day. Summers are a little hotter, and much wetter.

Location (12° 31′ 40″ S, 131° 34′ 0″ E)

Transport to the game reserve can be by road or private air charter. We will pick you up at the airport upon your arrival or from your Hotel. Travelling time by road from Darwin to Carmor Plains is 2 and 1/2 hours. If you prefer we can charter a light aircraft for you from Darwin, direct to the hunting camp, flying time 25 minutes!

Carmor Plains Wildlife Reserve in a larger map

]]> http://www.airboatafrika.com/carmor-plains/feed/ 0 http://www.airboatafrika.com/mlalazi-river/ http://www.airboatafrika.com/mlalazi-river/#comments Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:50:56 +0000 Chris http://www.airboatafrika.com/?p=2834 [Curious? Find out more...]]]> South Africa (KwaZulu-Natal)

Umlalazi Nature Reserve

This unique coastal reserve stretches along the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast, just outside Mtunzini. Established in 1948 as a protected area, Umlalazi Nature Reserve covers 1028 hectares.

Umlalazi River - African Fish Eagle

Offering several forms of relaxation, Umlalazi is home to one of the rarest birds of prey in South Africa, the Palmnut Vulture.

Along the river banks, African Fish Eagles are a common sight, and easily observed at the same time as a variety of Kingfisher species.

Though sharks and crocodiles may be present, great fishing and limited water-skiing are enjoyed in the lagoon. The beach is popular for angling, surfing, windsurfing, swimming and other water sports. Facilities include a tennis wall, swings, trampolines, and other playground equipment.

Three interesting walking trails can be enjoyed, such as an easy walk through one of the best examples of mangrove swamps in South Africa, boasting a variety of mangrove species. Another option meanders through the dune forest where bushbuck, red, grey and blue duiker and bushpig can be found. The third trail cuts across the dune forest and mangrove swamps along the river’s edge. Endemic wildflowers and abundant bird life are the reward, but you can also encounter colonies of fiddler crabs and fascinating mud-skippers.

Mtunzini – A Place In The Shade

Umlalazi River

The Zulu word emthunzini means “a place in the shade”, but historically, it refers specifically to the place under the milkwood trees near the Mlalazi River, where the White Zulu chief, John Dunn, would meet with the tribal elders of the area.
Enjoying high annual rainfall and a sub-tropical climate of mild winters and humid summers, Mtunzini is a tranquil village offering breathtaking panoramas over the Umlalazi Nature Reserve and the Indian Ocean beaches.

Mtunzini Coastal Forest from the Dunes

Declared a Conservancy in 1995, Mtunzini is reknowned for its natural heritage preservation efforts. One of only a few South African official natural monuments can be found along the railway line: the grove of raphia palms is home to the rare Palmnut Vulture.

Ongoye Forest Reserve

Only a half-hour drive into the hills of Zululand outside of Mtunzini, Ongoye Forest Reserve covers 3903 ha of remnant coastal forest overlooking the Indian Ocean. Interspersed with patches of rolling grasslands between granite outcrops, Ongoye is the only place in southern Africa to find Woodwards’ Barbet. Though easily found off the R102, make sure you have a 4×4 to go around inside the reserve. Stop at the rangers camp to get a local guide to take you around. Steep inclines wind their way through shady forest and open grass, offering peaks into steep ravines hiding their own endemic mammal, the Ngoye Red Squirrel. Baboons, mongooses, Samango monkeys, thick-tailed bushbaby and reclusive blue duiker can be seen. Euryphene achlys, the forest green butterfly, is unique to this forest, and a local KwaZulu-Natal endemic, the Zululand dwarf chameleon, is abundant at Ongoye.

Ongoye Forest Reserve

Dlinza Forest & The Aerial Boardwalk

Visited by birdwatchers from all over the world, Dlinza Forest, near flowery Eshowe, offers a fun alternative to walking the forest trails (of which there are a number, well sign-posted, too). A wooden aerial walk leads to various viewing platforms up to 30m above ground. Providing a rare insight to Zulu cultural heritage, numerous tree markers along the trails provide interesting information, describing medicinal uses of various trees.

service providers

Service Providers

Thirteen log cabins at Umlalazi Nature Reserve each offer a combined lounge / diningroom, two bedrooms, kitchenette and bathroom with shower or bath. Cabins are fully equipped for self-catering, only provisions must be brought, available at the local supermarket. Cabins are serviced daily, guests are responsible for cooking and washing up. Campsites are Indaba and Inkwazi camp, only five to ten minutes walk from the beach.

Mtunzini Forest Lodge

Comprised of 22 self-catering wooden chalets, Mtunzini Forest Lodge occupies an idyllic strip of coastal forest between the Village and the dunes. Fully equipped for 3 to 5 people, some with a loft for children, all chalets offer a private sundeck with a barbeque area. Cool & shady amongst the lush vegetation, the rumbling of the Indian Ocean is heard in the distance. Situated on the property, Twitches Restaurant provides an a la carte dining menu. Reserved to residents, a large sparkling swimming pool allows cooling off during the day’s heat. Nature trails through the dune forest and mangrove swamps uncover natural attractions of the area, with its diverse vegetation and abundant bird life. Magnificent Raffia Palms, home to the rare Palmnut Vulture, are unique to the Mtunzini area. An easy stroll across the wooden bridge over the Siyayi River takes one directly to the unspoilt beaches. Mtunzini Forest Lodge is recognized as a Birder Friendly Establishment.

Ongoye Forest Reserve
A joint project between a wide group of stakeholders including The Mzimela Tribal Authority, Uthungulu District Municipality, BirdLife South Africa, The SAPPI WWF Tree Routes Partnership, The Mtunzini Conservancy and Umalazi Municipality, the Ongoye Forest Birders Camp facilitates access to one of the provinces most precious bio-diversity areas. Intended to make a positive difference to the long-term conservation of this asset, it directly involves the forests neighboring communities, the Mzimela Tribal Authority, in the area’s management.
Facilities consist of a permanent structure with 3 twin-bedded rooms, 1 bathroom with bath, shower and toilet. Linen and towels are provided. Gas stove and fridge, cutlery and crockery are provided for up to 6 people; additional camping is subject to prior arrangement. The camp is NOT electrified but gas is provided for the stove and geyser, and paraffin lamps for lighting. Cell phone coverage is limited. Open plan lounge, dining room and kitchen as well as outside veranda and braai area are available.

The river is “The Gambia”. Literally, the country exists as a small strip of land area to either side of the river. People say: “The Gambia River is the Gambia and the Gambia is the River”. It is a major tourist attraction and the dominant feature running through the heart of the country.

Fishing Fleet in Banjul

This West African waterway is approximately 700 miles (1,130 km) long, rising in the Fouta Djallon plateau in Northern Guinea, flowing generally northwest through SE Senegal then west, dissecting The Gambia, to the Atlantic Ocean at Banjul. The river is navigable in most of its length. Ocean-going vessels can reach Georgetown (Janjangbureh), about 175 miles (280 km) upstream. The river provides access to interior sections of Senegal and Guinea. About 70 per cent of its catchment of 77,000 km² lies less than 100 m above sea level; 30 % below 40 m. The tide (and navigation) intrudes to 460 km upstream of Banjul and thus defines the estuary and the greater part of the boundary between The Gambia an Senegal.

About 42,000 km² of the catchment area is situated above the hydrologic station at Gouloumbo (km 492). Of the 35,000 km² area downstream of this point, 10,500 km are in the Gambian territory.

In 1978, Senegal and The Gambia formed the Gambia River Development Organization (which was joined by Guinea in 1980) for the purpose of developing the river’s natural resources. The objective of the project is to increase agro-forestry and pastoral output, rationalise tapping of the natural resources and improve the infrastructures and social services of the project area.

The river ecology is divided into two different zones, estuarine and freshwater, which in turn largely determine the peripheral vegetation pattern. Salt water sneaks in some 150 km (95 mi) upstream, as far as Kantaur in the dry season (November to June). In the lower estuary, mangroves dominate the riverside, with extensive reed belts in the in-between zone, while where the water is fresh, the banks are lined with gallery forest.

Up river, the water wildlife is more interesting where you can see crocodiles, dolphins and hippos. The main feature along the river is the incredible variety of birds and most of the bird trips are boat trips along the creeks of The Gambia at dawn or dusk.

There are boat trips and fishing voyages, but too little is now made of the river in tourist terms though there are tour companies operating river tours and fishing safaris at the mouth of the river and upstream. There are camps at Tendaba and Georgetown specialising in watching and spotting the amazing variety of species that abound in this tiny country.

If you travel to Banjul, think of taking the ferry to Barra just for the trip and its sights and sounds. Fort Bullen at Barra Point was built by the British 200 years ago to cover the approaches to Banjul and the river, succeeding James Island Fortress (destroyed by the French) as the main point of defence in the colony. It can be reached by direct ferry from the capital. Oyster Creek is the centre of an area of creeks and waterways which can be visited from Banjul. This area is part of the Tanbi Wetlands.

The river is also closely linked with the slave trade, the remains of slave trading posts can be seen along its length and the Roots books brought prominence to Albreda near Juffure Village from where Kunte Kinte was enslaved. Albreda was the main French trading post before they withdrew from The Gambia. Nearby is the village of Juffure, the home of the ancestors of black American writer Alex Haley, author of ‘Roots’. Visitors who want to see more of the countryside may cross by ferry from Banjul to Barra and travel by road to Juffureh and Albreda (the journey lasts about 50 minutes), and then by canoe to James Island in the calm waters of the River Gambia.

The popular tourist destination of Tendaba is 160 km (100 miles) from Banjul by river or road. Further upriver, the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau have now been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old. Georgetown was the ‘second city’ of colonial days, and is still the administrative and trading centre of the region. Basse Santa Su is the major trading centre for the upper reaches of the Gambia River. Handsome trading houses built at the turn of the century can be seen there. By the riverside at Perai Tenda can be found a multitude of abandoned shops formerly operated by European, Gambian and Lebanese merchants in the days when up-river commerce offered substantial profits for private traders.

The Tarangire National Park was established in 1970 and excels in beauty and scenery. The park’s main feature is the Tarangire River winding like an enormous snake through the landscape, the source of life for the many animals that gather on the river banks in the dry season. Another mayor characteristic is the giant baobab trees that dot the hilly terrain.

Tarangire National Park

The park, with its 2 850 km², is the sixth largest park in Tanzania and often visited as part of ‘northern circuit safaris’. The southern part of Tarangire National Park is relatively unknown and contains an enormous swampy area called Silale, inaccessible during the wet season.

Tarangire is one of the best places to see elephants in Tanzania. Often red in color (the soil contains a lot of iron), the elephants come in big numbers to the riverbed in the dry season to quench their thirst. Since the riverbank in the north is quite high, elephant viewing can be absolutely stunning. There are a number of other animals that are worth mentioning. Tarangire is home to tree-climbing African pythons (they normally live on the ground) and, just like Lake Manyara National Park and Mikumi National Park, tree-climbing lions. The gerenuk and fringed-eared-oryx give the park extra flavor, as they can’t be seen anywhere else in Tanzania.

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Oliver’s Camp - fly camp on a walking safari

Located in the middle of the Tarangire wilderness, Oliver’s Camp overlooks a much wider eco-system: The Ngorongoro highlands, the Great Rift Valley, the Lake Manyara region and of course Tarangire National Park itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are the specialties here, and the only 8 beautifully furnished guest tents provide for an intimate experience.

Sanctuary Swala is located in an exceptionally private section of Tarangire National Park, offering visitors a luxurious and very exclusive safari experience. Sanctuary Swala, which has twelve tents, has recently been completely rebuilt to the highest eco-friendly standards. From the entrance of the park it is another 67 km to  Sanctuary Swala. The road winds through the park and offers some spectacular game viewing en route to the camp. Kuro airstrip is approximately 30 minutes drive from Swala. There is a once a day scheduled light aircraft flight into Kuro from Arusha.

Sanctuary Swala Tented Camp

Built on top of a high bluff with a breathtaking panorama, the simple Tarangire Safari Lodge offers one of the best views in Africa: the Tarangire River, a favorite watering place, attracts impressive numbers and variety of game. The lodge is only 10km from the north gate, and is served by a well maintained dirt road.

Hidden among the kopjes lies Tarangire Sopa Lodge, surrounded by ancient baobab trees. It is the home of the greatest concentration of elephants in Africa and other game, including the elusive leopard. Over 400 bird species can be spotted here as well. With water constantly available in the area, the greenery is lush providing a wonderful contrast to the burnt ground. Close to the north gate, the lodge is about 2 hours drive from Arusha.

With its spacious suites perched high up in the age old Baobab and Marula trees, astride the path of the Elephant Migration, Tarangire Treetops sits alone in a private game reserve bordering Tarangire National Park and the Maasai Steppe. Amid rolling hills with views to Lake Manyara and the Rift Valley wall, only a one-hour drive from the nearest gate, there are 20 luxury tents, built atop tree-attached platforms, overlooking the Tarangire Sand River.

Kikoti Tented Camp is a good value tented camp outside the park itself. Located near to Tarangire Treetops, this lodge shares the same areas as Treetops, and hosts a good population of elephant. A good option for an economical Tarangire visit. With only 10 tents you are guaranteed to enjoy a level of intimacy with the environment denied to all but the most selective traveller. This simple, but beautiful camp harks back to the days when Ralph Lauren was not seen on the bed linen! The balance of the camp is just right with relatively simple but tidy rooms and a stunning communal area with thatched dining area and camp fire. On the whole, this camp, while suffering slightly from being outside the park, is a very good choice for those looking to save a bit of money but still have a really authentic experience.

In the west of Tarangire National Park, the very basic Mawe Ninga Tented Camp has an impressive position on a high kopje, overlooking the soda lake of Lake Burungi, with Lake Manyara in the far distance. The best vista is across the small central bridge to the dramatic campfire, sited on the edge of a large rounded boulder. Mawe Ninga’s 12 canvas tents are raised on high wooden decks. Some are cantilevered from boulders to lend vertiginous, but spectacular, views from small verandas. The tents are internally divided to create a bedroom and bathroom/dressing area, and facilities are very simple. There are no resident guides at this camp, so you must visit with your own safari guide.

The dwarf amongst Tanzania’s national parks, Gombe Stream National Park is only 52 km² in size. Situated on the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the park was established in 1968 and is a mix of beautiful lush hilly rain forests, deep ravines and occasional grass lands.

Gombe Stream National Park

It is the home of the Kasekela Chimpanzee troop, made world famous by Jane Goodall who conducted primate research in Gombe for many years. Being a national park with very few roads and vehicles, this is the place to be if you want a different experience and like walking or hiking. The park’s altitude is between 750 and 1500 meters. The waters of Lake Tanganyika, gently rolling onto tropical white beaches, form an ideal background for stunning sunsets after a day of trekking the chimps.

Gombe Stream National Park, different from most national parks in Africa, is mainly visited by those who have a keen interest in primates. These forest inhabitants often have the same interest in you as you in them.

Chimpanzee in Gombe Stream National Park

The main activity is of course a visit to the chimpanzees. Apart from walks through the bush you have the possibility to experience lake-based activities like snorkeling, fishing or boating.

If you are fit and like hiking, a visit to either the Kakombe or Mkenke waterfalls is a nice alternative from lazing on the beach. For those who are interested in a more cultural experience, a visit to a nearby fishing village can be organized.

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Tent at Gombe Forest Lodge

TANAPA (Tanzania National Parks) runs Kasekela Rest House (4 beds) and Kasekela Hostel (6 beds) in the little park; the total amount of beds is limited to 10 in total. These accommodations are rugged and you should be entirely self-reliant.

Situated on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Gombe Forest Lodge has been designed with every comfort in mind, whilst minimizing the disturbance and impact of such a stunning environment. The camp’s spacious tents, set on wooden platforms, are shaded by huge mango trees along the lakeshore, each tent featuring a writing desk and en-suite facilities with hot and cold running water.

The scenic Kowie River (known locally as the “Ecawa”) is navigable for some 28 km and flows from wild indigenous forest through farmland, past riverside homes, under two bridges in Port Alfred’s town center and out to sea. In its tidal waters people enjoy boating, cruising, waterskiing, fishing and swimming, while canoeists on the Kowie Canoe Trail paddle at their own pace to their overnight shelter in the forest, passing hikers on the riverside Kowie Hiking trail or picnickers at the waterside.

Kowie River Mouth - Port Alfred

The Kowie has its source in the hills of the Grahamstown Heights from where it flows in a south-easterly direction draining the major part of the Bathurst region.  Its principal tributaries are the Bloukrans, the Bakrivier and the Lushington (or Torrens) River. The Little Kowei River is a smaller tributary which enters the estuarine portion of the river 14 km from the mouth. There are also a number of smaller unnamed streams entering the river along its course. The total length of the Kowie River is approximately 70 km.

Geology

The major part of the Kowie River lies within a strip of the Bokkeveld Series which runs along its length down to the coast, in a north-westerly to south-easterly direction. The Bokkeveld Series consists mainly of shale with subsidiary sandstone bands; pronounced dipping and folding are evident, as can be seen in the quarries and cuttings of Port Alfred.

Land Use

Agricultural products include pineapples, citrus, chicory, fodder crops, cattle and goat. The Kowie River dominates the town as it meets the Indian Ocean at Port Alfred. Most of the river is navigable by boat, making it one of the longest tidal rivers in South Africa, and an important center for tourism in the Eastern Cape.

The Kowie Nature Reserve of 174 ha is just outside Port Alfred, off the Bathurst Road. It boasts an 8 km riverside walk through scenic valley bushveld and some picnic and braai sites. Local fauna is abundant, including the Blue Duiker and Cape Clawless Otter.

The Waters Meeting Nature Reserve lies in the river’s Horseshoe Bend. From there, scenic views are enjoyed on the one-day hiking trail around the Sarel Hayward Dam. A number of picnic sites are to be found on the way; look out for African Fish Eagles! The only self-guided hiking / canoe trail in South Africa starts at Port Alfred and ends at Horseshoe Bend.

Vegetation

Warm temperature coastal forests: This vegetation type is well established to the east with Sideroxylon inerme (milkwood), Mimusops caffra (red milkwood), Brachylaena discolor (wild silver oak) and others. Nearer the river, however, this coastal forest is more open and stunted or lower growing.  Alien trees such as Eucalyptus globulus (blue gum) and Acacia cyclops (rooikrans) are found here while Passerina sp, Chrysanthemoides monolifera and Rhus crenata are found nearer the beach.

Sub-succulent Woodland, Coastal Sub-formation: Tree Euphorbias and other succulents are common in this vegetation type as well as Schotia latifolia (bush boerboon), Ptaeroxylon obliquum (sneeze wood), Cussonia spicata (cabbage tree) and others. This vegetation type is described as ‘Valley Bushveld, Southern Variation’ and is found adjacent to the river well into the catchment, except where the vegetation has been removed by  private land owners for crops and grazing. Around the town, this vegetation type survives relatively well, except in areas where some of the woody species have been removed for fuel.

History

As far as could be ascertained, the river has always been known as the Kowie River. The settlement established at the mouth of the river in 1821 was originally called Port Kowie. This was changed to Port Frances in 1825 in honour of the wife of Colonel Henry Somerset who was then in charge of the military forces on the Eastern Frontier. In 1860 the name of the town was changed once again, to Port Alfred to honour Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburg who was visiting the Frontier at that time. When the settlement was first established at the mouth of the river, the estuary consisted of one vast swampy region bounded on the east and west by the hills today known as the East and West Banks. When the tide receded it left exposed a number of sandbanks or islands, and the main outlet to the sea was under the eastern hill, exactly opposite the flats to where it is at present.

Shipping

The Kowie River Mouth is an extremely popular spot to get shipwrecked – exercise care.

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Kowie River - Mansfield Private Reserve

This is the hart of the Sunshine Coast and Settler Country, home to many attractions including Addo Elephant National Park and numerous private game lodges.

Bretton Beach Crest resort is situated 3 km from the Kowie River Mouth along the beach front and consists of 9 comfortably furnished, fully equipped beach cottages.

The Halyards Hotel is splendidly set along the waterfront of the popular Royal Alfred Marina, a fine example of Cape Cod architecture with its cool and nautical appeal.

If fishing and surfing are the sports you enjoy Port Alfred is the place to holiday. Come and enjoy these rustic self-catering Kowie River Chalets, centrally located in this rural seaside town. Enjoy a one or two day paddle trail on the river, bag a fish or two, snap up some bargains at the big pineapple or just relax at the poolside.

The Links Coastal Inn is the perfect location to explore and enjoy the many interesting tourist attractions of the area.

Mansfield Private Reserve and Lodge, just 7 km north of Port Alfred, lies nestled amongst 1000 acres of lush undulating grassland and thornveld plat

eaus. Vegetation is typical Eastern Cape sweetveld with kloofs providing ideal habitat for both browsers and grazers.

The Royal Guest House is situated high on the east bank of the Kowie River and overlooks the peaceful marina. French doors from the lounge open onto a magnificent wooden deck from where you can overlook the town and out to sea  – sometimes spotting the odd migrating whale!