Tzaneen Dam is set in the tropical area of South Africa, surrounded by tea, banana and fruit plantations. Only an hour’s driving away from the Kruger National Park, this wilderness area incorporates the dam basin and a peninsula, with plenty of angling and fishing opportunities.

Tzaneen Dam

Previously known as Fanie Botha Dam, the lake is fed by the Letaba River, just outside the town of Tzaneen. To access the lake, a drive along several kilometres of tracks through dense mature eucalyptus forests is required. When you emerge from the forest, it was well worth the trip as the dam is fantastic to look at and just oozes big fish!

Stocked with Florida strain largemouth bass, the dam is a fixture on the tournament circuit being the venue for several competitions, including the annual Tzaneen Bass Classic held in June of each year.

This is also a favorite birding area with more than 350 bird species. Stay overnight at a picnic site or a caravan park and nature will treat you to magnificent copper bronze skies at sunset.

The surface area covers about 12 km² at an elevation of 728 m. Boating is permitted in most areas, and there is an official slipway at the Aquatic Club.

....that BEEEEG!

The lake is home to some hippos and at least one fairly large crocodile, so swimming in shallow backwaters is not recommended. The hippos are not too aggressive but should still be avoided as they might just be having a bad day. Remember, in Africa, hippos have right of way.

Although access is restricted in many parts, bank angling is possible in many areas, a float tube or canoe would make some of the standing timber accessible. Watch out for hippos and crocs!

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Service Providers

Stay overnight at Tzaneen Wildlife Camp where a picnic site or a caravan park and nature will treat you to magnificent copper bronze skies at sunset. Visitor’s facilities consist of caravan and camping sites with ablution facilities: 28 Stands, Barbeque Area, Parking.

Fairview Hotel & Village

Fairview Hotel & Village boasts various types of accommodation, hotel style units, suites and selfcatering chalets. These 40 units can sleep 80 people and are tastefully decorated in an Afro-colonial style. All rooms are supplied with all necessary amenities in bathrooms as well as a coffee and tea tray. DSTV is in all rooms and wireless internet can be accessed in public areas.

 

Mashutti Country Lodge

Located on a country farm near Tzaneen, at the foot of the Wolkberg mountains, Mashutti Country Lodge is surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of tropical gardens, abundance of fruit and nut trees, and lush vegetation. The great location of this Lodge offers ample opportunities to explore the nature reserves, hike in the mountains, visit local museums, or tour the coffee, tea, and cotton plantations. View the artefacts of pottery, beads, and pole carvings found at the nearby Tzaneen Dam, go fly fishing on a local river, and feed a crocodile at the Agatha Crocodile Ranch. This Country Lodge offers 40 standard double rooms along with 4 suites, all finished with hand crafted mahogany.  Two swimming pools located in the midst of lush, tropical gardens where you can float in paradise while admiring a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. A warm and inviting lounge area is ideal for reading a book, relaxing with a drink from the bar, or playing a board game. Watch some television in the TV lounge before heading over to the restaurant for an a la carte meal in the dining room with magnificent views.

‘Where the Water Meets the Sky’, and true to its name, Bangweulu’s endless floodplains of grey-blue waters disappearing into the horizon, blending completely with the color of the sky, make it impossible to tell just where the horizon is.

Likened to Botswana’s great Okavango Delta, the Bangweulu Wetlands are situated in the Northern Province of Zambia. The Bangweulu ecosystem stretches northwards to include Lake Bangweulu and other adjoining smaller lakes, swamps, floodplains, islands and adjoining woodlands above flood levels. Together, the inflowing Chambeshi and outflowing Luapula Rivers form the remote headwaters of the Congo. The region is closely associated with Dr. David Livingstone, who died here at Chief Chitambo’s village.

Bangweulu Wetlands

With a long axis of 75 km and a width of up to 40 km, Lake Bangweulu’s permanent open water surface is about 3,000 km², which expands when its swamps and floodplains are in flood at the end of the rainy season in May. The combined area of the lake and wetlands reaches 15,000 km². The lake has an average depth of only 4 m.

Samfya is the largest town on the Lake, developed in the mid 1900’s as a fishing village. It is very shabby, unordered and scattered, but you can get basic supplies as well as fresh fish. There is a post office, clinic and adequate fuel supplies.

The Great Bangweulu Basin, incorporating the vast Bangweulu Lake and a massive wetland area lies in a shallow depression in the centre of an ancient cratonic platform, the North Zambian Plateau. The basin is fed by 17 principal rivers from a catchment area of 190 000 km² , but is drained by only one river, the Luapula.

The area floods in the wet season between November in March, receiving an average annual rainfall of about 1,200 mm, but 90% of the water entering the system is lost to evapo-transpiration. The resultant effect is that the water level in the centre of the basin varies between one and two meters, causing the floodline to advance and retreat by as much as 45 km at the periphery. It is this seasonal rising and falling of the flood waters that dictates life in the swamps.

The adjacent Kasanka National Park to the immediate South is one of the most picturesque parks in Zambia and contains a rich diversity of animal, bird and plant life. Several rare species are abundant in the park, including sitatunga, wattled crane, Ross’s Lourie and Blue Monkeys. Kasanka is also host to a unique and spectacular congregation of several Million Straw-Colored Fruitbats every November and December. Despite being one of Zambia’s smallest parks at 390 km² (39,000 ha), Kasanka has a wide variety of habitats, each hosting their own associated wildlife. There are 2 permanent lodges in Kasanka, Wasa and Luwombwa.

In August 1872, David Livingstone was on his way from Tabora, where Stanley had left him in March. Near Bangweulu he got bogged down in the swamps but finally reached Chitambo’s village. On May 1, 1873, his servants found him in his tent kneeling in prayer at the bedside. He was dead. His men buried his heart but embalmed the body. Susi & Chuma then carried it to the mission of the Holy Ghost fathers at Bagamoyo. It reached England, where it was identified by the lion wound in the left shoulder. On April 18, 1874, Livingstone was buried in great honor in London’s Westminster Abbey.

The Kwanga Ceremony of the Njumbo tribe takes place in Samfya in October. If you are there at the time it’s worth finding out about for a fascinating insight into local customs and traditional dancing. Any of the locals should be able to tell you the exact date as it changes from year to year, or ask at the Tourist Board in Lusaka.

Flora and Fauna

The lake is exploited more as a fish source than for its tourist potential. This is unfortunate, as it’s beauty is breathtaking. There are rumours of developing a tourist resort and having a luxury cruise boat for hire. But for the moment this is a an interesting stopover for the intrepid vehicle traveller or backpacker.

Fisherman in a Mokoro

The main catches in the Lake are Cychlids (bream, tigerfish, yellow belly) and catfish. About 57 000 metric tons of fish are harvested from the Lake each year. Although fish stocks are not in danger, catches are declining and the favoured species are becoming thinner.

The higher ground surrounding the Bangweulu is dominated by miombo woodland intersected by numerous dambos. The floodplain itself is dominated by grasslands varying in composition according to the depth and duration of annual flooding. For the most part, the swamps consist of areas of open water surrounded by permanent dense stands of Papyrus grass and Phragmites reeds which are only accessible by airboat or shallow canoe via an intricate network of narrow channels.

In contrast, the temporarily inundated floodplains, grasslands and woodlands provide for a greater range of vegetation types and as a consequence a greater diversity in bird and animal species who inhabit these areas at various times of the year.

Black Lechwe

Numerous termite mounds are scattered over a wide area. They are such a feature of this environment that Livingstone once described the Bangweulu floodplain as “a world of water and anthills.” These raised mounds act as small islands safe for any flooding and allow the survival of various tree seedlings. Over time these trees have become well established with the result that a woodland has developed and contains good examples of water berry, Syzygium cordatum, sausage tree Kigelia africana and several figs, to name but a few.

The Bangweulu Wetlands is the last area where the black lechwe (Kobus leche smithemani) occur, with an estimated population at the present time of 100,000 animals. There is also a very high density sitatunga population, and at least 10,000 tsessebe. Remnant populations of elephant, buffalo, hippopotamus and zebra also remain. Bangweulu is an important bird area especially well known as a stronghold of the enigmatic Shoebill, and a large population of Wattled Cranes. Much of the area is lake, swamp, seasonally flooded grasslands and attractive termite-mound woodlands. The Chambeshi and Luapula Rivers, which are the main southern tributaries of the Congo River, if not the source of the Congo itself, rise in the area.

When to go

During the rains (November to March) insects are more prolific but the birdlife is phenomenal. All trips in and around the swamps are by boat. The Chimbwe floodplain will be inundated and to attempt to drive to Shoebill Island Camp will be impossible. There is a raised causeway leading from the last village before the floodplain, Muwele, to Chikuni. A small banana boat is used to reach the Camp from Chikuni, a trip of 4 kms through tall grasses and reeds.

Depending on the extent of the rain during the summer, the floodplain dries out sufficiently to allow the passage of 4×4 vehicles by mid to late April. It is then possible to observe the black lechwe at close quarters and also to reach another raised causeway that leads to Shoebill camp.

By June/July, much of the floodplain is dry and the lechwe have moved closer towards the permanent swamp and Shoebill Camp. It also becomes possible to take walks from the camp and experience the strange sensation of walking on the floating mats of vegetation which grow on the surface of the once open water. While the number of birds around at this time of year is still extensive, the number of species drops with the departure of the summer migrants.

August is very much the middle of winter in the swamps, and although the daytime temperatures are pleasant it can be extremely cold at nights with temperature dropping to freezing.

location

Location (from 10° 52′ 12″ S, 29° 56′ 60″ E to 12° 40′ 12″ S, 30° 43′ 12″ E)

Chiundaponde to Waka Waka

The drive to the southern edge of the swamps where Shoebill and Nsobe camps are, takes about 12 hours from Lusaka, the last stretch of 140 km taking six hours! Take the Great North Road from Lusaka, turn right just after Kapiri Mposhi towards Mpika. Take the Samfya/Mansa road turning left after Serenje. Turn right 10 km after the Kasanka turnoff, towards the Livingstone memorial and remain on this track, keeping right at the memorial fork, for 70 km, towards the village of Chiundaponde.

Another route is to go directly to the Lavushi Manda turnoff on the Great North road, just below Mpika, which leads straight to Chiundaponde. From the village, make your way to Chikuni Island and then straight ahead to Shoebill Camp or left to Nsobe Camp. You can ask for directions at the WWF camp at Chikuni, as it is very easy to get lost after you leave the village.

If driving, make sure you have adequate fuel and spares as this is an extremely remote part of the country and help is a long way off. It is advisable to let someone know when you are leaving and when you expect to arrive or return. There are radio facilities at Shoebill camp and a National Parks & Wildlife Services office at Chiundaponde.

The Postal Services Corporation runs a transport boat from the mainland to the three main islands in Lake Bangweulu: Mbabala, Cishi and Chilubi.

Bangweulu Wetlands in a larger map

Umlalazi Nature Reserve

This unique coastal reserve stretches along the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast, just outside Mtunzini. Established in 1948 as a protected area, Umlalazi Nature Reserve covers 1028 hectares.

Umlalazi River - African Fish Eagle

Offering several forms of relaxation, Umlalazi is home to one of the rarest birds of prey in South Africa, the Palmnut Vulture.

Along the river banks, African Fish Eagles are a common sight, and easily observed at the same time as a variety of Kingfisher species.

Though sharks and crocodiles may be present, great fishing and limited water-skiing are enjoyed in the lagoon. The beach is popular for angling, surfing, windsurfing, swimming and other water sports. Facilities include a tennis wall, swings, trampolines, and other playground equipment.

Three interesting walking trails can be enjoyed, such as an easy walk through one of the best examples of mangrove swamps in South Africa, boasting a variety of mangrove species. Another option meanders through the dune forest where bushbuck, red, grey and blue duiker and bushpig can be found. The third trail cuts across the dune forest and mangrove swamps along the river’s edge. Endemic wildflowers and abundant bird life are the reward, but you can also encounter colonies of fiddler crabs and fascinating mud-skippers.

Mtunzini – A Place In The Shade

Umlalazi River

The Zulu word emthunzini means “a place in the shade”, but historically, it refers specifically to the place under the milkwood trees near the Mlalazi River, where the White Zulu chief, John Dunn, would meet with the tribal elders of the area.
Enjoying high annual rainfall and a sub-tropical climate of mild winters and humid summers, Mtunzini is a tranquil village offering breathtaking panoramas over the Umlalazi Nature Reserve and the Indian Ocean beaches.

Mtunzini Coastal Forest from the Dunes

Declared a Conservancy in 1995, Mtunzini is reknowned for its natural heritage preservation efforts. One of only a few South African official natural monuments can be found along the railway line: the grove of raphia palms is home to the rare Palmnut Vulture.

Ongoye Forest Reserve

Only a half-hour drive into the hills of Zululand outside of Mtunzini, Ongoye Forest Reserve covers 3903 ha of remnant coastal forest overlooking the Indian Ocean. Interspersed with patches of rolling grasslands between granite outcrops, Ongoye is the only place in southern Africa to find Woodwards’ Barbet. Though easily found off the R102, make sure you have a 4×4 to go around inside the reserve. Stop at the rangers camp to get a local guide to take you around. Steep inclines wind their way through shady forest and open grass, offering peaks into steep ravines hiding their own endemic mammal, the Ngoye Red Squirrel. Baboons, mongooses, Samango monkeys, thick-tailed bushbaby and reclusive blue duiker can be seen. Euryphene achlys, the forest green butterfly, is unique to this forest, and a local KwaZulu-Natal endemic, the Zululand dwarf chameleon, is abundant at Ongoye.

Ongoye Forest Reserve

Dlinza Forest & The Aerial Boardwalk

Visited by birdwatchers from all over the world, Dlinza Forest, near flowery Eshowe, offers a fun alternative to walking the forest trails (of which there are a number, well sign-posted, too). A wooden aerial walk leads to various viewing platforms up to 30m above ground. Providing a rare insight to Zulu cultural heritage, numerous tree markers along the trails provide interesting information, describing medicinal uses of various trees.

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Service Providers

Thirteen log cabins at Umlalazi Nature Reserve each offer a combined lounge / diningroom, two bedrooms, kitchenette and bathroom with shower or bath. Cabins are fully equipped for self-catering, only provisions must be brought, available at the local supermarket. Cabins are serviced daily, guests are responsible for cooking and washing up. Campsites are Indaba and Inkwazi camp, only five to ten minutes walk from the beach.

Mtunzini Forest Lodge

Comprised of 22 self-catering wooden chalets, Mtunzini Forest Lodge occupies an idyllic strip of coastal forest between the Village and the dunes. Fully equipped for 3 to 5 people, some with a loft for children, all chalets offer a private sundeck with a barbeque area. Cool & shady amongst the lush vegetation, the rumbling of the Indian Ocean is heard in the distance. Situated on the property, Twitches Restaurant provides an a la carte dining menu. Reserved to residents, a large sparkling swimming pool allows cooling off during the day’s heat. Nature trails through the dune forest and mangrove swamps uncover natural attractions of the area, with its diverse vegetation and abundant bird life. Magnificent Raffia Palms, home to the rare Palmnut Vulture, are unique to the Mtunzini area. An easy stroll across the wooden bridge over the Siyayi River takes one directly to the unspoilt beaches. Mtunzini Forest Lodge is recognized as a Birder Friendly Establishment.

Ongoye Forest Reserve
A joint project between a wide group of stakeholders including The Mzimela Tribal Authority, Uthungulu District Municipality, BirdLife South Africa, The SAPPI WWF Tree Routes Partnership, The Mtunzini Conservancy and Umalazi Municipality, the Ongoye Forest Birders Camp facilitates access to one of the provinces most precious bio-diversity areas. Intended to make a positive difference to the long-term conservation of this asset, it directly involves the forests neighboring communities, the Mzimela Tribal Authority, in the area’s management.
Facilities consist of a permanent structure with 3 twin-bedded rooms, 1 bathroom with bath, shower and toilet. Linen and towels are provided. Gas stove and fridge, cutlery and crockery are provided for up to 6 people; additional camping is subject to prior arrangement. The camp is NOT electrified but gas is provided for the stove and geyser, and paraffin lamps for lighting. Cell phone coverage is limited. Open plan lounge, dining room and kitchen as well as outside veranda and braai area are available.

Rugged, steep krantzes silhouetted against the skyline, mountain slopes snugly covered with a grass blanket, deep lushly vegetated kloofs and a crystal-clear lake are the beauty of Sterkfontein Dam Reserve, covering 18,000 ha at the foothills of the Drakensberg Escarpment.

Oribi, Mountain Reedbuck and Grey Rhebuck inhabit the Sterkfontein Reserve. The bald Ibis, the blue and whitebellied Korhaan are conspicuous on the grassy slopes, while buffstreaked Chat, ground Woodpecker and Sentinel and Cape Rock Thrushes can be seen on rocky outcrops. Bearded and Cape Vultures, as well as the Black and Martial Eagles and Secretary Birds are found here. Birds and bird lovers will enjoy the dam, where nearly 200 bird species have been recorded.

The Yellowwood, Wild Peach, Koko Tree, Silky Bark and Bush Guarri flourish in the sheltered kloofs at Sterkfontein. Wild grape has twined into the tree tops, where they form a dense, leafy canopy that protects ferns and mosses below. Fungi and lichen nestle against living and rotting tree trunks. The mountain slopes are decorated with wild Myrtle, Redwood, Ouhout, Bush Guarri, Highveld Protea, Silver Sugarbush and the scarce Tree Fern.

A two-day hiking trail has been established in the Sterkfontein Dam Reserve. Those wanting to relax and savour the great outdoor sensation and the beauty of the mountain will be enchanted.

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Service Providers

Set on the shores of the picturesque Sterkfontein Dam within the Sterkfontein Nature Reserve, Qwantani Resort offers breathtaking views over the tranquil waters and impressive mountains. Short drives from the resort will bring you to places of interest such as the Basotho Cultural Village nestled in the heart of the Qwaqwa National Park, Camorhi Game Reserve, Golden Gate and Clarens.

Sterkfontein Dam at Wild Horses Lodge

Located in the Eastern Free State’s pristine Sterkfontein Nature Reserve at the foothills of the Drakensberg Escarpment, Wild Horses Lodge is the perfect location for an African breakaway. With its panoramic views of the majestic Platberg Mountain and the vast Sterkfontein Dam, the (only!) four luxury rooms are a masterpiece of architectural design in local sandstone, accompanied by exquisite cuisine. A variety of activities centered around the dam, the reserve’s abundant wildlife and mountains include hiking, fly fishing, bird watching, game viewing, boat cruises and horse riding.