Lake Phobane

Lake Phobane (previously known as Goedertrouw Dam) is reached via the Nkwalini Valley between Eshowe and Melmoth, a region which was once the heart of King Shaka’s Kingdom.

The dam is set in the Umhlatuze Valley with the Mabelebele Mountains offering a spectacular backdrop. It was completed on the uMhlatuze River in 1980 to provide an assured water supply to the developing port and industrial complex at Richards Bay. It is about 14 kms in length and has a massive capacity of 300 million cubic meters (10.6 billion cubic feet).

Lake Phobane is the second biggest dam in KwaZulu Natal and is fed by seven rivers, four of which are perennial. At the time of its construction it held the title of the largest earth-walled dam in the southern hemisphere.

The habitats along the dam vary from dry acacia scrub to tall mixed woodland, riverine forest patches and mountainous areas with cliffs up to 100m high dropping into the water. The dam itself is mainly open water with a few areas of quiet backwaters with plenty of overhanging vegetation. Where the rivers feed into the dam, shallow rocky areas have formed.

It is a renowned birding spot, and a popular fresh water fishing site. As many as 24 different species of fish have been identified in the lake, which boasts large numbers of Largemouth Bass, Barbel and Tilapia.

The southern shores of the dam are controlled by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife as the Umhlatuze Community Conservation Area. A variety of animals have been reintroduced here including Giraffe, Waterbuck, Kudu and Impala. Leopard have also been seen.

Boats may be launched, however, it is advisable not to leave your vehicle/picnic site unattended and there are no toilet facilities.

Location (28^o52’16.1″ S, 31^o26’42.8″ E)

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Service Providers

iPhiva Bush Lodge

iPhiva Bush Lodge, tucked away on the 380 hectares Umhlatuze Community Conservation Area, offers 5 unique floating chalets moored in tranquil coves for complete privacy. These two bedroom chalets have a shower and toilet and an open plan kitchen and lounge area. Each has its own motorized skiff on which guests can cruise around the dam or just lazily observe the magnificent bird life. All accommodation is self-catering. Meals are available on request. There also are 8 thatched two-bedroom chalets on land and 14 safari tents set in riparian forest on the edge of the dam. Birding is unrivaled with Peregrine and European hobby falcon, horus and palm swift, black cuckooshrike, yellow-breasted apalis, chinspot batis and three-streaked tchagra, and on and on and on…

Overnight accommodation in Stewarts Farm / Kwabekithunga Zulu Village is available in 24 traditional Zulu ‘beehive’ huts, fitted with electricity, en suite showers and toilets. Catering, licensed bar and swimming pool facilities complement the relaxed and informal environment. The area has a prolific bird life. By nature, the Zulus are polite and sharing people, and here Chief Thomas and his family invite you to their home.

Nestled in the scenic and fertile Nkwalini Valley (Valley of the Virgin Warrior), on the R34 between Empangeni and Eshowe, Mfuli Game Ranch is home to a variety of game including Zebra, Nyala and Duiker, as well as Ostrich and a Crocodile farm. Accommodation includes six en-suite bedrooms, four self catering cabins (each sleeping six) and a fully furnished, self catering house with 2 bathrooms and its own lounge and kitchen. The a la carte restaurant & bar serve local delicacies.

Ruvuma River, formerly also known as the Rovuma River, is a river in East Africa, forming during the greater part of its course the border between Tanzania and Mozambique (in Mozambique known as Rio Rovuma). It is 800 kilometres (497 mi) long, with a drainage basin 155,500 square kilometres (60,000 sq mi) in size. Its mean annual discharge is 475 m³/s (16,774 cfs) at its mouth.

Moja Mekoro across the Lugenda River

The lower Ruvuma is formed by the junction of two branches of nearly equal importance, the longer of which, the Lujenda, comes from the south-west, the other, which still bears the name Ruvuma, from the west. Its source lies on an undulating plateau, 3,000 ft. high, immediately to the east of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi), the head-stream flowing first due west before turning south and east.

In its eastward course the Ruvuma flows near the base of the escarpment of an arid sandstone plateau to the north, from which direction the streams, which have cut themselves deep channels in the plateau edge, have almost all short courses.

On the opposite bank the Ruvuma receives, besides the Lujenda, the Msinje River and Luchulingo River, flowing in broad valleys running from south to north. The Lujenda rises in proximity to Lake Chilwa, in the small Lake Chiuta (1,700 ft.), the swamps to the south of this being separated from Chilwa only by a narrow wooded ridge. The stream which issues from Chiuta passes by a swampy valley into the narrow Lake Amaramba, from which the Lujenda finally issues as a stream 80 yards wide.

Lower down it varies greatly in width, containing in many parts long wooded islands which rise above the flood level, and are often inhabited. The river is fordable in many places in the dry season. At its mouth it is about a mile wide.

The lower Ruvuma, which is often half a mile wide but generally shallow, flows through a swampy valley flanked by plateau escarpments containing several small backwaters of the river. The mouth is near 10° 28′ S, 40° 30′ E, the boundary near the coast being formed by the parallel of 10° 40′. The length of the Ruvuma is about 500 miles.

Niassa Reserve is a nature reserve in Cabo Delgado Province and Niassa Province, Mozambique. Covering over 42,000 km² (10,000,000 acres), it is the largest protected area in the country. The reserve is part of the Trans-Frontier Conservation Area and links to the Tanzanian Selous Game Reserve. It will connect to the Lake Niassa Reserve when it is completed.

Elephants at Inselberg

The northern border is formed by the Rovuma River, which also forms the border with Tanzania. The Lugenda River forms the border to the southeast, Luatize River to the southeast, and Lussanhando River to the west. Niassa Reserve is twice the size of Kruger National Park and comparable to the total area of Wales, Denmark or Massachusetts.

Niassa is part of the Eastern Miombo woodlands, which also encompasses parts of Tanzania and Malawi. The reserve is one of the largest miombo woodland preserves in the world, with miombo forest covering half of the preserve. The remainder is mostly open savannah, with some wetlands and isolated patches of forest. 95% of the preserve’s biomass is vegetation, which includes 21 types of plant matter and 191 species of trees and shrubs.

Niassa Preserve boasts an African wild dog population of over 200, significant for an endangered mammal with a global population estimated at 3000. The park boasts a sable antelope population of 9000, an elephant population of 12000, over 400 bird species, and large populations of Cape buffalo, impala, wildebeest, zebra and leopards. The area has three endemic species – the Niassa wildebeest, Boehm’s zebra, and Johnston’s Impala.

The reserve is home to Mecula Mountain, located at the center of the park with a height of 1,441 metres (4,730 ft).

The wildlife remains free and unfettered and the results of an aerial census in 2002 estimated over 12 000 elephant, 9 000 Sable Antelope and several thousand Cape Buffalo. Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest, eland and zebra roam the plains and river valleys against a backdrop of towering inselbergs (or island mountains) that dominate the topography here.

Niassa National Reserve is truly a Mozambique wildlife paradise, providing refuge for over 200 endangered Cape Hunting Dog (African Wild Dog), as well as other predators such as lion, leopard and Spotted Hyena, and general game such as kudu, bushbuck, impala, wildebeest, waterbuck, reedbuck and hippo. Three sub-species, the Niassa Wildebeest, Boehm’s Zebra and Johnston’s Impala are endemic to the Niassa area. This is one of the last areas in the world where such a wide array of wildlife thrives without any management by man.

Location (10°45′ S, 35°40′ E to 10°28′ S, 40°30′ E)

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Tent and Elephant at Lugenda

Service Providers

Lugenda Wilderness Camp offers the ultimate pioneering safari amidst an Africa still wild and untrammeled. Nestled along the eastern bank of the Lugenda River, this elegant and intimate camp accommodates just 16 people in luxurious east-African styled tents.

Kariega River - seen from Stanleys

Kenton-on-Sea is a quaint seaside village situated between the Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers, along the Sunshine Coast – Eastern Cape, South Africa.   These rivers are navigable for 16 and 30 kilometers respectively. Upriver, one can view a host of indigenous bird life from the colourful sunbird to the soaring fish eagle. Wildlife can be spotted along some parts of the banks of the rivers.

Fishermen are spoilt for choice including deep sea ski boat angling, with launches off  Middle Beach or the Kariega River Mouth,  scuba diving and spearfishing, rock, surf and gully fishing between the two river mouths, and river angling and crabbing in the two tidal rivers.

Whale and dolphin watching are a rewarding excursion in coastal waters; private game reserves include Kariega, Sibuya, Amakala, Pumba, Kwandwe and Shamwari. Addo Elephant National Park is only a short drive away.

Location (from 33°21’46” S, 26°15’58″ E to 33°40’54” S, 26°41’5” E)

Access to the Kariega is best via the seaside resort of Kenton-on-Sea, about 140 km (80 miles) equidistant between Port Elizabeth and East London.

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Service Providers

Dunwerkin Self-Catering

Dunwerkin offers self catering accommodation in 2 two bedroom units. Each bedroom has en-suite facilities and apartments have a comfortable living area. Full DSTV and DVD player, private patio with Weber braai, patio furniture, infrared patio heater and retractable all weather awning, under-floor heating and ceiling fans in living areas and bedrooms make this an up-market luxury establishment. Situated in a quiet and secluded area, Dunwerkin is only a five-minute walk from shops, restaurants, the Kariega River and lagoon and Kenton Beach.

Kariega - River Lodge exterior

Kariega Private Game Reserve is bordered in the east and west by the picturesque Kariega and Bushman’s Rivers. Take in the unique eco-systems of the rivers on a tranquil boat cruise. The twice-daily safari drives on open landcruisers offer a unique combination of exciting lion, elephant and Big 5 game viewing and expansive variety of fauna, flora and birdlife in a landscape that incorporates two majestic river valleys and five different eco-systems. Luxury accommodation and fine dining in 4 separate game lodges nestled into the African bush allows guests to unwind in comfort as they settle into the ordered rhythms of nature.

Sibuya Forest Camp

Sibuya Game Reserve, covering well over 2000 hectares of very varied terrain and vegetation, has more navigable river than any other game reserve in South Africa. From the moderately open river plains, through the pristine lower Albany thicket, there are also patches of Cape Fynbos and a windswept, grassy plateau favoured by many of the larger grazing animals. The delightfully scenic Kariega River estuary winds its way through heavily wooded thickets on steep slopes before opening out onto wide, grassy flats and sandbanks just upstream of the river’s mouth into the Indian Ocean. Bird enthusiasts have a fair chance of spotting the elusive Narina Trogon, while sightings of other exquisitely colourful birds such as Knysna Turacos, Sunbirds and Kingfishers are frequent. For those impressed by size, there are Ostriches, Denham’s Bustards, Secretarybirds, Crowned Eagles, Fish Eagles, Spurwing Geese, Goliath Herons and many more. Sibuya offers luxury tented accommodation in the River Camp and the Forest Camp.

The river is “The Gambia”. Literally, the country exists as a small strip of land area to either side of the river. People say: “The Gambia River is the Gambia and the Gambia is the River”. It is a major tourist attraction and the dominant feature running through the heart of the country.

This West African waterway is approximately 700 miles (1,130 km) long, rising in the Fouta Djallon plateau in Northern Guinea, flowing generally northwest through SE Senegal then west, dissecting The Gambia, to the Atlantic Ocean at Banjul. The river is navigable in most of its length. Ocean-going vessels can reach Georgetown (Janjangbureh), about 175 miles (280 km) upstream. The river provides access to interior sections of Senegal and Guinea. About 70 per cent of its catchment of 77,000 km² lies less than 100 m above sea level; 30 % below 40 m. The tide (and navigation) intrudes to 460 km upstream of Banjul and thus defines the estuary and the greater part of the boundary between The Gambia an Senegal.

About 42,000 km² of the catchment area is situated above the hydrologic station at Gouloumbo (km 492). Of the 35,000 km² area downstream of this point, 10,500 km are in the Gambian territory.

In 1978, Senegal and The Gambia formed the Gambia River Development Organization (which was joined by Guinea in 1980) for the purpose of developing the river’s natural resources. The objective of the project is to increase agro-forestry and pastoral output, rationalise tapping of the natural resources and improve the infrastructures and social services of the project area.

The river ecology is divided into two different zones, estuarine and freshwater, which in turn largely determine the peripheral vegetation pattern. Salt water sneaks in some 150 km (95 mi) upstream, as far as Kantaur in the dry season (November to June). In the lower estuary, mangroves dominate the riverside, with extensive reed belts in the in-between zone, while where the water is fresh, the banks are lined with gallery forest.

Up river, the water wildlife is more interesting where you can see crocodiles, dolphins and hippos. The main feature along the river is the incredible variety of birds and most of the bird trips are boat trips along the creeks of The Gambia at dawn or dusk.

There are boat trips and fishing voyages, but too little is now made of the river in tourist terms though there are tour companies operating river tours and fishing safaris at the mouth of the river and upstream. There are camps at Tendaba and Georgetown specialising in watching and spotting the amazing variety of species that abound in this tiny country.

Fishing Fleet in Banjul

If you travel to Banjul, think of taking the ferry to Barra just for the trip and its sights and sounds. Fort Bullen at Barra Point was built by the British 200 years ago to cover the approaches to Banjul and the river, succeeding James Island Fortress (destroyed by the French) as the main point of defence in the colony. It can be reached by direct ferry from the capital. Oyster Creek is the centre of an area of creeks and waterways which can be visited from Banjul. This area is part of the Tanbi Wetlands.

The river is also closely linked with the slave trade, the remains of slave trading posts can be seen along its length and the Roots books brought prominence to Albreda near Juffure Village from where Kunte Kinte was enslaved. Albreda was the main French trading post before they withdrew from The Gambia. Nearby is the village of Juffure, the home of the ancestors of black American writer Alex Haley, author of ‘Roots’. Visitors who want to see more of the countryside may cross by ferry from Banjul to Barra and travel by road to Juffureh and Albreda (the journey lasts about 50 minutes), and then by canoe to James Island in the calm waters of the River Gambia.

The popular tourist destination of Tendaba is 160 km (100 miles) from Banjul by river or road. Further upriver, the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau have now been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old. Georgetown was the ‘second city’ of colonial days, and is still the administrative and trading centre of the region. Basse Santa Su is the major trading centre for the upper reaches of the Gambia River. Handsome trading houses built at the turn of the century can be seen there. By the riverside at Perai Tenda can be found a multitude of abandoned shops formerly operated by European, Gambian and Lebanese merchants in the days when up-river commerce offered substantial profits for private traders.

Location (13°28′0″ N, 16°34′0″ W)

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Service Providers

Mandina River Lodge - River Front

Mandina River Lodge is set amongst a tropical garden in a hidden corner of Makasutu Culture Forest. This private lodge, easy to reach from Banjul International airport, is exclusive and accommodates a maximum of 12 guests.

Ngala Lodge - Where the Atlantic meets The Gambia:

The suites at Ngala Lodge, originally a colonial Mansion, are each uniquely furnished with a combination of imported and local art. Each suite is completely different, all are very spacious and offer great comfort with a luxurious bathroom, living and bedroom as well as your own balcony or garden.

Ngala Manor comprises 4 large suites over two floors. Each suite has a dramatic view across the exclusive Manor garden, extending over the Atlantic Ocean.

The Atlantic Wing houses 5 very spacious air-conditioned suites, beautiful furnished living room, king size beds, excellent bathroom with dressing area.

Sandele Bay Eco-Retreat is a sumptuous development on a stunning beach in Southern Gambia, built in conjunction with the local community of Kartong, who benefit from the development and running of the resort. The Retreat offers accommodation in 10 luxury lodges, nestled in the bush adjacent to 5 km of white-sanded, palm-fringed beach.

Tarangire National Park

The Tarangire National Park was established in 1970 and excels in beauty and scenery. The park’s main feature is the Tarangire River winding like an enormous snake through the landscape, the source of life for the many animals that gather on the river banks in the dry season. Another mayor characteristic is the giant baobab trees that dot the hilly terrain. The ‘upside down tree’ is a magnificent actor to use in sun-set images as it stands perfectly still! The last specialty of the region are the sometimes enormous termite mounds that form the home of many smaller and larger creatures.

The park, with its 2 850 km², is the sixth largest park in Tanzania and often visited as part of ‘northern circuit safaris’. The southern part of Tarangire National Park is relatively unknown and contains an enormous swampy area called Silale, inaccessible during the wet season.

Tarangire is one of the best places to see elephants in Tanzania. Often red in color (the soil contains a lot of iron), the elephants come in big numbers to the riverbed in the dry season to quench their thirst. Since the riverbank in the north is quite high, elephant viewing can be absolutely stunning. There are a number of other animals that are worth mentioning. Tarangire is home to tree-climbing African pythons (they normally live on the ground) and, just like Lake Manyara National Park and Mikumi National Park, tree-climbing lions. The gerenuk and fringed-eared-oryx give the park extra flavor, as they can’t be seen anywhere else in Tanzania.

Location (3°50′ S, 36°0′ E)

Tarangire is serviced by excellent roads and is only 115 km from Arusha. The park is easily reached by tar road in about two hours from Arusha or by charter plane.

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Service Providers

Oliver’s Camp - fly camp on a walking safari

Located in the middle of the Tarangire wilderness, Oliver’s Camp overlooks a much wider eco-system: The Ngorongoro highlands, the Great Rift Valley, the Lake Manyara region and of course Tarangire National Park itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are the specialties here, and the only 8 beautifully furnished guest tents provide for an intimate experience.

Sanctuary Swala is located in an exceptionally private section of Tarangire National Park, offering visitors a luxurious and very exclusive safari experience. Sanctuary Swala, which has twelve tents, has recently been completely rebuilt to the highest eco-friendly standards. From the entrance of the park it is another 67 km to  Sanctuary Swala. The road winds through the park and offers some spectacular game viewing en route to the camp. Kuro airstrip is approximately 30 minutes drive from Swala. There is a once a day scheduled light aircraft flight into Kuro from Arusha.

Sanctuary Swala Tented Camp

Built on top of a high bluff with a breathtaking panorama, the simple Tarangire Safari Lodge offers one of the best views in Africa: the Tarangire River, a favorite watering place, attracts impressive numbers and variety of game. The lodge is only 10km from the north gate, and is served by a well maintained dirt road.

Hidden among the kopjes lies Tarangire Sopa Lodge, surrounded by ancient baobab trees. It is the home of the greatest concentration of elephants in Africa and other game, including the elusive leopard. Over 400 bird species can be spotted here as well. With water constantly available in the area, the greenery is lush providing a wonderful contrast to the burnt ground. Close to the north gate, the lodge is about 2 hours drive from Arusha.

With its spacious suites perched high up in the age old Baobab and Marula trees, astride the path of the Elephant Migration, Tarangire Treetops sits alone in a private game reserve bordering Tarangire National Park and the Maasai Steppe. Amid rolling hills with views to Lake Manyara and the Rift Valley wall, only a one-hour drive from the nearest gate, there are 20 luxury tents, built atop tree-attached platforms, overlooking the Tarangire Sand River.

Kikoti Tented Camp is a good value tented camp outside the park itself. Located near to Tarangire Treetops, this lodge shares the same areas as Treetops, and hosts a good population of elephant. A good option for an economical Tarangire visit. With only 10 tents you are guaranteed to enjoy a level of intimacy with the environment denied to all but the most selective traveller. This simple, but beautiful camp harks back to the days when Ralph Lauren was not seen on the bed linen! The balance of the camp is just right with relatively simple but tidy rooms and a stunning communal area with thatched dining area and camp fire. On the whole, this camp, while suffering slightly from being outside the park, is a very good choice for those looking to save a bit of money but still have a really authentic experience.

In the west of Tarangire National Park, the very basic Mawe Ninga Tented Camp has an impressive position on a high kopje, overlooking the soda lake of Lake Burungi, with Lake Manyara in the far distance. The best vista is across the small central bridge to the dramatic campfire, sited on the edge of a large rounded boulder. Mawe Ninga’s 12 canvas tents are raised on high wooden decks. Some are cantilevered from boulders to lend vertiginous, but spectacular, views from small verandas. The tents are internally divided to create a bedroom and bathroom/dressing area, and facilities are very simple. There are no resident guides at this camp, so you must visit with your own safari guide.

Gombe Stream National Park

The dwarf amongst Tanzania’s national parks, Gombe Stream National Park is only 52 km² in size. Situated on the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the park was established in 1968 and is a mix of beautiful lush hilly rain forests, deep ravines and occasional grass lands.

It is the home of the Kasekela Chimpanzee troop, made world famous by Jane Goodall who conducted primate research in Gombe for many years. Being a national park with very few roads and vehicles, this is the place to be if you want a different experience and like walking or hiking. The park’s altitude is between 750 and 1500 meters. The waters of Lake Tanganyika, gently rolling onto tropical white beaches, form an ideal background for stunning sunsets after a day of trekking the chimps.

Chimpanzee in Gombe Stream National Park

Gombe Stream National Park, different from most national parks in Africa, is mainly visited by those who have a keen interest in primates. These forest inhabitants often have the same interest in you as you in them. The most notorious inhabitants of the rainforests are the chimpanzees, although there are very healthy populations of baboons, red-tailed monkeys and vervet monkeys as well. Occasionally one might come across a hunting leopard or a lost hippopotamus. So don’t visit this park if you are only looking for big game. Gombe might also be the best place in Tanzania to come across the forest pig. The park is getting increasingly popular amongst birders as the area is home to more than 200 different species. The best time to visit the park is between July and October, although you might have to hike far to find the chimps. In the wetter season from February to June, the chimps will not venture too far and might be easier to find.

The main activity is of course a visit to the chimpanzees. Apart from walks through the bush you have the possibility to experience lake-based activities like snorkeling, fishing or boating.

If you are fit and like hiking, a visit to either the Kakombe or Mkenke waterfalls is a nice alternative from lazing on the beach. For those who are interested in a more cultural experience, a visit to a nearby fishing village can be organized.

Location (4°40′ S, 29°38′ E)

The Park is situated 16 km north of Kigoma, in western Tanzania. Covering only 52 km² (20 sq miles), it is a narrow strip of mountainous country bounded in the east by the crest of the eastern Rift Valley escarpment, and in the west by Lake Tanganyika. The western boundary actually excludes the lakeshore, allowing local people to walk along the beach, and fishermen to camp there. The northern and southern boundaries are ridges separating the Park from the villages of Mwamgongo and Kasinga.

View Lake Tanganyika in a larger map

The Park is dissected by 13 steep-sided valleys carved out by swift-flowing streams running from east to west. The altitude varies from 773 meters above sea level (at the lake shore) to over 1500 meters at the top of the escarpment (i.e. 2,535 to 4,920 ft).

Getting to Gombe Stream National Park is probably the most challenging (and expensive) aspect of your trip. The park can only be reached by boat from Kigoma and you should prepare yourself for a three hour journey by slow boat or a one hour trip by chartered, faster boat. Daily charter flights will fly from Dar-es-Salaam and Arusha to Kigoma, from where your boat to Gombe Stream National Park departs.

Service Providers

Tent at Gombe Forest Lodge

TANAPA (Tanzania National Parks) runs Kasekela Rest House (4 beds) and Kasekela Hostel (6 beds) in the little park; the total amount of beds is limited to 10 in total. These accommodations are rugged and you should be entirely self-reliant.

Situated on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Gombe Forest Lodge has been designed with every comfort in mind, whilst minimizing the disturbance and impact of such a stunning environment. The camp’s spacious tents, set on wooden platforms, are shaded by huge mango trees along the lakeshore, each tent featuring a writing desk and en-suite facilities with hot and cold running water.

The scenic Kowie River (known locally as the “Ecawa”) is navigable for some 28 km and flows from wild indigenous forest through farmland, past riverside homes, under two bridges in Port Alfred’s town center and out to sea. In its tidal waters people enjoy boating, cruising, waterskiing, fishing and swimming, while canoeists on the Kowie Canoe Trail paddle at their own pace to their overnight shelter in the forest, passing hikers on the riverside Kowie Hiking trail or picnickers at the waterside.

Kowie River Mouth - Port Alfred

The Kowie has its source in the hills of the Grahamstown Heights from where it flows in a south-easterly direction draining the major part of the Bathurst region.  Its principal tributaries are the Bloukrans, the Bakrivier and the Lushington (or Torrens) River. The Little Kowei River is a smaller tributary which enters the estuarine portion of the river 14 km from the mouth. There are also a number of smaller unnamed streams entering the river along its course. The total length of the Kowie River is approximately 70 km.

Geology

The major part of the Kowie River lies within a strip of the Bokkeveld Series which runs along its length down to the coast, in a north-westerly to south-easterly direction. The Bokkeveld Series consists mainly of shale with subsidiary sandstone bands; pronounced dipping and folding are evident, as can be seen in the quarries and cuttings of Port Alfred.

Land Use

Agricultural products include pineapples, citrus, chicory, fodder crops, cattle and goat. The Kowie River dominates the town as it meets the Indian Ocean at Port Alfred. Most of the river is navigable by boat, making it one of the longest tidal rivers in South Africa, and an important center for tourism in the Eastern Cape.

The Kowie Nature Reserve of 174 ha is just outside Port Alfred, off the Bathurst Road. It boasts an 8 km riverside walk through scenic valley bushveld and some picnic and braai sites. Local fauna is abundant, including the Blue Duiker and Cape Clawless Otter.

The Waters Meeting Nature Reserve lies in the river’s Horseshoe Bend. From there, scenic views are enjoyed on the one-day hiking trail around the Sarel Hayward Dam. A number of picnic sites are to be found on the way; look out for African Fish Eagles! The only self-guided hiking / canoe trail in South Africa starts at Port Alfred and ends at Horseshoe Bend.

Vegetation

Warm temperature coastal forests: This vegetation type is well established to the east with Sideroxylon inerme (milkwood), Mimusops caffra (red milkwood), Brachylaena discolor (wild silver oak) and others. Nearer the river, however, this coastal forest is more open and stunted or lower growing.  Alien trees such as Eucalyptus globulus (blue gum) and Acacia cyclops (rooikrans) are found here while Passerina sp, Chrysanthemoides monolifera and Rhus crenata are found nearer the beach.

Sub-succulent Woodland, Coastal Sub-formation: Tree Euphorbias and other succulents are common in this vegetation type as well as Schotia latifolia (bush boerboon), Ptaeroxylon obliquum (sneeze wood), Cussonia spicata (cabbage tree) and others. This vegetation type is described as ‘Valley Bushveld, Southern Variation’ and is found adjacent to the river well into the catchment, except where the vegetation has been removed by  private land owners for crops and grazing. Around the town, this vegetation type survives relatively well, except in areas where some of the woody species have been removed for fuel.

History

As far as could be ascertained, the river has always been known as the Kowie River. The settlement established at the mouth of the river in 1821 was originally called Port Kowie. This was changed to Port Frances in 1825 in honour of the wife of Colonel Henry Somerset who was then in charge of the military forces on the Eastern Frontier. In 1860 the name of the town was changed once again, to Port Alfred to honour Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburg who was visiting the Frontier at that time. When the settlement was first established at the mouth of the river, the estuary consisted of one vast swampy region bounded on the east and west by the hills today known as the East and West Banks. When the tide receded it left exposed a number of sandbanks or islands, and the main outlet to the sea was under the eastern hill, exactly opposite the flats to where it is at present.

Shipping

The Kowie River Mouth is an extremely popular spot to get shipwrecked – exercise care.

Location

Port Alfred is a town halfway (on the R72, roughly 150km each way) between Port Elizabeth and East London in the Eastern Cape.

View Kowie River in a larger map

Service Providers

Kowie River - Mansfield Private Reserve

This is the hart of the Sunshine Coast and Settler Country, home to many attractions including Addo Elephant National Park and numerous private game lodges.

Bretton Beach Crest resort is situated 3 km from the Kowie River Mouth along the beach front and consists of 9 comfortably furnished, fully equipped beach cottages.

The Halyards Hotel is splendidly set along the waterfront of the popular Royal Alfred Marina, a fine example of Cape Cod architecture with its cool and nautical appeal.

If fishing and surfing are the sports you enjoy Port Alfred is the place to holiday. Come and enjoy these rustic self-catering Kowie River Chalets, centrally located in this rural seaside town. Enjoy a one or two day paddle trail on the river, bag a fish or two, snap up some bargains at the big pineapple or just relax at the poolside.

The Links Coastal Inn is the perfect location to explore and enjoy the many interesting tourist attractions of the area.

Mansfield Private Reserve and Lodge, just 7 km north of Port Alfred, lies nestled amongst 1000 acres of lush undulating grassland and thornveld plat

eaus. Vegetation is typical Eastern Cape sweetveld with kloofs providing ideal habitat for both browsers and grazers.

The Royal Guest House is situated high on the east bank of the Kowie River and overlooks the peaceful marina. French doors from the lounge open onto a magnificent wooden deck from where you can overlook the town and out to sea  – sometimes spotting the odd migrating whale!

Gorongosa National Park is at the southern end of the Great African Rift Valley in the heart of central Mozambique. The 3,770 square kilometer park includes the valley floor and parts of surrounding plateaus. Rivers originating on nearby 1863-meter Mount Gorongosa water the plain.

Gorongosa National Park - Mount Gorongosa view

Ecology

Gorongosa National Park protects a vast ecosystem defined, shaped, and given life by all the rivers that flow into Lake Urema. The Nhandungue crosses the Barue Plateau on its way down to the valley. The Nhandue and Mucombeze come from the north. Mount Gorongosa contributes the Vunduzi. Several smaller rivers pour down off the Cheringoma Plateau. Together they comprise the Urema Catchment, an area of about 7,850 square kilometers.

Most of the rivers are seasonal, reaching the valley floor only during the rainy season, between November and April. The rest of the year they are intermittent rivers that appear and disappear into the earth. Only the Vunduzi and the Nhandungue feed Lake Urema the entire year. The Nhandungue receives help from the Muera, a smaller stream that feeds it even at the height of the dry season. Like the Vunduzi, the Muera comes from Mount Gorongosa. Thus water born on the mountain is the key to life in the valley below.

On calm, clear days, the lake’s surface reflects Mount Gorongosa’s huge green bulk, as if in gratitude, and rightly so: it’s a commanding presence the indigenous people hold sacred. An isolated, 600-square-kilometer massif, 1,863 high, it’s large enough to create its own weather system. Two meters of precipitation fall annually on the mountain. Lush forests and grasslands on its upper reaches soak up much of that water and dispense it down slope all year long.

Biodiversity

The Park is nestled in a 4,000-square-kilometer section of the Great African Rift system, Africa’s most dramatic geological feature. The Rift extends from Ethiopia to central Mozambique. Massive tectonic shifts began forming the Rift about 30 million years ago. Other warpings, uplifts, and sinkings of the earth’s crust over millennia shaped the plateaus on both sides and the mountain to the west. All that commotion, together with sun, wind, and rain at the surface, created a rich collection of soils–even distinct types and many other varieties. Mozambique’s tropical savanna climate, with an annual cycle of wet and dry seasons, has added yet another factor to the complex equation: constant change in soil moisture that varies with elevation. The valley is located 21 kilometers west of Mount Gorongosa at 14 meters above sea level.

The result is an astounding number of plant species in complex associations that in turn support many different reptiles, frogs, and fish; more than 400 bird species; about two dozen wild ungulates, including elephants, buffalos, zebras, wildebeest, elands, sables, hartebeest, oribis, nyalas, and kudus; six primates (including 2 bushbaby species); and more than a dozen large predators, including lions, leopards, wild dogs, and crocodiles.

Urema Rift Valley

Lake Urema is located in the middle of the valley, about three-quarters of the way down from the Park’s northern boundary. The Muaredzi River, flowing from the Cheringoma plateau, deposits sediments near the outlet of the lake slowing its drainage. This “plug” causes the Urema to greatly expand in the rainy season.  Water that makes its way past this alluvial fan flows down the Urema River to the Pungue and into the Indian Ocean. In the flooded rainy season, water backs up into the valley and out onto the plains, covering as much as 200 square kilometers in many years. During some dry seasons, the lake’s waters shrink to as little as 10 square kilometers. This constant expansion and retraction of the floodplains, amidst a patchwork of savanna, woodland, and thickets, creates a complex mosaic of smaller ecosystems that support a greater abundance and diversity of wildlife than anywhere else in the Park.

Restoration Project

The humans who live within the greater Gorongosa ecosystem are the area’s greatest threat.  However, they can choose to be the ecosystem’s best friend and protector.  The people of Gorongosa are a component of the ecosystem, they depend upon the region’s natural resources, the Park’s fate is in their hands.

In 2004 the Mozambique government and The Carr Foundation launched a long-term campaign to engage local communities in protecting Mount Gorongosa and the entire Park ecosystem by giving the local people an economic stake in the health and future of the Park. Twenty percent of revenue from ecotourism at Gorongosa — safari game drives, bird watching, and guided hikes up the mountain–is given to community councils who spend the money to benefit social projects in their villages.  The parties do not consider this revenue sharing a gift,  communities earn it by assisting Park management in shared conservation objectives.

Location (15°36′54.4″ S, 30°26′21.6″ E to 15°35′8.71″ S, 32°42′16.2″ E)

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Service Providers

The first private ecotourism initiative in this national park, Explore Gorongosa offers luxury walking safaris led by expert guides, based from an exclusive semi-permanent tented camp and a series of light wilderness fly-camps.

Gorongosa National Park’s public Chitengo Safari Camp has a legendary history for offering both great hospitality and incredible game-viewing.  During the 1960′s and early 1970′s the Park was highly regarded for its large animal herds, its comfortable, family-friendly camp, and the highest density of lions in Africa!  However, during the various political and social upheavals of the past three decades, the public hospitality facilities at Gorongosa were almost completely destroyed.  Now, under the strategic alliance between The Carr Foundation and the Government of Mozambique, the Park can once more boast a comfortable and well-serviced public camp at Chitengo, as well as providing a range of tourism activities from guided game drives to informative talks and displays on the impressive restoration project underway at Gorongosa. There is also a large shaded swimming pool, a top quality restaurant and even internet connectivity at Chitengo Camp.

Limpopo River - Mapungubwe

The Limpopo is the second largest river in Africa that drains to the east, after the Zambezi River. Around 1 750 kilometers long, it starts at the confluence of the Marico and Crocodile rivers in South Africa and flows in a great arc, first zig-zagging northeast and north, then turning east and finally southeast. It serves as a border for about 640 km, separating South Africa on the southeast bank from Botswana in the northwest and Zimbabwe on the north.

Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site is rich in biodiversity, great scenic beauty and the cultural importance of the archaeological treasures of Mapungubwe. On Mapungubwe Hill, a far developed African civilisation prospered between 1200 and 1270 AD. The area was already inhabited by a growing Iron Age community from 900 AD and became rich through trade with Egypt, India and China.

The Limpopo’s main tributary is the Olifants River (Elephant River). Other major tributaries include the Shashe River, Mzingwane River, Crocodile River, Mwenezi River and Luvuhu River.

The port town of Xai-Xai, Mozambique is on the river near its mouth. Below the Olifants, the river is permanently navigable to the sea, though a sandbar prevents access to larger ships, except at high tide.

Location (from 25°10′0″ S, 33°35′0″ E to 25°10′0″ S, 33°35′0″ E)

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Service Providers

Luvuvhu River - Pafuri road bridge

Originating just north of Makhado, the perennial Luvuvhu River follows a 200 km course along the southern edge of the Zoutpansberg and eventually joins the Limpopo River in the far north-east of the Kruger National Park, on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique.

Upon leaving the Zoutpansberg, the Luvuvhu runs  south past the eastern edges of Makhado, to head east into the Albasini Dam. From there, it traverses Vhenda agricultural settlements to reach Thohoyandou. Nandoni Dam (Nandoni means “the iron smelting ovens”) is situated just a few kilometers from Thohoyandou in the district of Vhembe in Limpopo province.

Near the western Kruger National Park border, in the steep Lanner Gorge, the Mutale River joins the Luvuvhu River.

The area between the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers has been proposed as a Ramsar site. This area will fall within the proposed Gaza-KNP-Gonarezhou Transfrontier Park. The high biodiversity in this area can be attributed to the geographic location as well as the diversity of landscape features. Three biomes converge in the Pafuri area, and nine geological features with contrasting rock types are found, including quartzite, sandstone, mudstone, shale and basic lavas.

Extensive areas of floodplain alluvium occur at the confluence of the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers. Several landscape features are found in this wetland, which include riverine forest, riparian floodplain forest, floodplain grassland and river channels and pans.

The riverine forest is confined to the riverbanks. It consists of large, broad canopied trees more than 20 m in height. The river is extremely popular with crocodiles, both inside and outside of the National Park. Incidents with local fishermen are common.

In the early 1900’s Crook’s Corner used to be a smuggler’s paradise for hunters, smugglers and poachers, hence its nickname. The outlaws used to camp here and “jump” from one country to another to avoid being arrested for smuggling ivory and gold.

Location (from 23°0’12″ S, 29°57’37″ E to 22°25’32″ S, 31°18’24″ E)

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Service Providers

Luvuvhu River - The Outpost

The Outpost lies in a vast wilderness area in the northernmost part of Kruger National Park. Italian born architect Enrico Daffonchio designed this multiple-award winning lodge. Using simple, clean lines and combining elements of steel, concrete and open space, the unashamedly contemporary design of The Outpost emphasizes its beautiful surrounds but blends and preserves the wilderness that is its home.

Pafuri Camp lies in the wildest and most remote part of the Kruger National Park and offers varied vegetation, great game viewing, the best birding in all of the Kruger, and is filled with folklore of the early explorers and ancient civilisations. It is well known for its fever tree forests, beautiful gorges and Crook’s Corner, where the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and three countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique, meet.

The Pafuri Walking Trail invites you to walk through one of the most remote and diverse places in the Kruger: the riverine areas of the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and secret perennial springs interspersed with rugged baobab-dotted kopjes that jut from mopane woodland. Endless vistas across palm-studded floodplains, acacia woodland and ethereal riverine forest combine excellently with wildlife and bird encounters.